bethlakshmi: (Default)
So, this came up recently in the SCA India (unofficial) Facebook group - and in the discussion, I realized how very few of the resources on this topic actually fit my experience doing it, and also that googling for "history Kalari" is likely to be even worse.  Modern practitioners do a good job of describing the form but the history references are all over the map.  The history of this form is something "everyone knows" - but very, very few can give you a reason how/why they know it.

And that started this post.  


Kalaripayattu - what is it?


At its heart - it's a martial art.  But it's also a form of healing and form of body movement and training.  It comes from Kerala, India, and it's a form of unarmored combat comprising hand to hand and a series of weapons.  It's also a healing system - Kalaripayattu practitioners use a massage technique delivered with the feet ("thrimmu") - it can either be relaxing, improve fitness and flexibility, or heal maladies including injuries and other health conditions.  Another element of the art is that practicioners at the most senior levels become versed in the system of "marma" - there's a serious degree of crossover with Ayervedic medicine, but there are also differences.  One big one is that practicioners use marma both to heal and to hurt - as hitting these points of the body in the right way can be crippling and extremely painful.

Literally - "kalari" refers to the space in which the art is practiced.  It's normally a pit dug into the earth, with a roof on poles above it.  The pit is not a full story deep - so you get the cooling of the earth coupled with the heat escape & airflow of the open air above it, with a roof to keep it from becoming a swimming pool.  The pit would then be floored with packed mud and cow dung - which hardens very nicely into a cement like surface (but not at knee-breakingly hard).

"Kalari" is also short hand for Kalaripayattu, so you'll see me use that way a lot in this article.

"Payattu" means "bodily movement" or "method" or "art" - in fact, practicing sequences of body movements is called mei payattu (mei = body).  So you could roughly translate this to the exercises done in the space.  Not a bad description.

How Old is It?

I really wish I could give you a reference I trusted.  Here's what I've got...

The legend is that it was taught to humanity by a god - usually attributed to Parashurama.  Or else it was honed and originally taught by an Vedic sage named Agastya.  When you think Vedic - think ancient.  Pre dawn of Christian era and the bedrock that kicks off most of the origins of what we can document about India.

There's plenty of sites that also point to it being in the Sangam literature (300 BC - 300 AD is one estimate) - when I actually find what literary reference that is and what it says, I'll let you all know.  I don't doubt that some form of fighting is documented.  But I've found that in research, there can be a whole lot of extrapolation, with everyone quoting everyone, and no reference to the source material.

I do believe I can find (TBD reference) suitably old and SCA era relevant texts to knightly warriors in the region that is now Kerala - who were in fealty to a king, subsidized by the state, and available to kings as champions.  There's plenty of reason to believe that 1 on 1 duels were part of the context, and that these men acted as champions for the rulers.  They also participated in wars.  And it's pretty clear that this was a highly specialized skill that took a whole lot of training.  So far, none of that is out of line with modern Kalari practice - but there's not a lot to go on there in terms of actual practices.

It's often cited as the oldest martial art in the world - and that's got potential.  This stuff is really hard to say with certainty, but we do have plenty of evidence that there was plenty of trade between India and the Far East.  We also know that India had the means in terms of a fertile country, plenty of habitable climates, and other very useful materials for building, healing, eating and innovating - that it got very advanced as a country, very early.  And when the Chinese came to visit, they came to learn.  Certainly Buddhism came to China this way, and it's not unreasonable to believe Kalari practice did too.  Did it predate other forms in the area that is now China?  I have no clue, and I don't know enough to assert it.  Also - it's pretty likely that doing violence upon each other is something that humans have been doing and getting better at in many times and places, so there's no absolute here.  Is it really old?  Probably.  Oldest ever... really... for sure... - not sure we'll ever know.  Documenting movement systems is incredibly hard.  Finding documentation of them is even harder.  

There are some references to the thought that it was actually named Kalaripayattu in 1362AD - but I sure wish this site gave actual references.  That's nicely specific, but totally unsupported by sources.  There are medieval literary sources for the use of the term as a place in which training is done - one in particular is in Medieval Indian Literature, An Anthology by K. Ayyappa Paniker.  This is a 4 volume set that can be purchased on Exotic India, in all 4 volumes, or one can dig up the Malayali volume for likely a cheaper price.  In there is a literary source from mid to late period that references the word "Kalari" as the space in which the fighters who are in the poem train.  It's clearly an important space, and the training they do is clearly highly dangerous (based on the plot of the story), but there's no specifics on the movement form.

Kerala (or at least parts of it) manages to stay out of Mughal domination until after the end of the SCA period - we end our period with this region in the Nayak empire - which is the last Hindu ruled foothold.  It runs up to the 18th century, by which point the British domination is also a force.  

British domination did a number on pretty much all Indian arts - and Kalari is no exception.  It was outlawed.  I haven't pulled up primary sources on that one, but it ought to be relatively easy to trace.  How much did Kalari then look like what we have now?  No clue.

As India was getting its independance, Kalari was revived.  It's likely that some folks had maintained the practice in secret.  I have never found specific lineages on that, but this is plausible.  I seem to vaguely remember a man who also researched sacred texts on the subject and worked to revive it from there.  But I've never found a reference to him or those texts outside of a vague video from years and years ago.  There are some very rare texts that are fragile and under lock and key, and also so esoteric that they aren't readily searchable - so I'm willing to believe.


Here's some references that are about as close to credible as I can get:
  • https://kalaripayattuclass.com/about-kalaripayattu/#:~:text=Kalaripayattu%20History,in%20the%203rd%20century%20BC.&text=During%20the%20British%20rule%20in,of%20Kalaripayattu%20across%20the%20state.
  • http://www.kalaripayattubangalore.com/about/kalaripayattu-history/
  • https://www.bookmartialarts.com/news/the-worlds-oldest-martial-art
  • https://www.scoopwhoop.com/How-Much-Do-You-Know-About-Kalaripayattu-The-Mother-Of-Martial-Arts/
Notice how there's no primary or secondary sources but everyone is singing a similar tune.  Are they cribbing each other?  or is there something out there?  If you know, please post in the comments.

Teaching and Core Skills

This is a really rigorous form.  It takes stamina, core strength, flexibility and control.  Normally practitioners are not overly muscled, it's a lot of lean muscle, as the exercises push for both flexibility and power through control.  There's no magic to this - it's hard work.  The massage program really helps - as the massage for enhancing athleticism (Katcha Thrimmu) works to both lengthen muscles and work out knots and irregularities in the muscle tissue, as well as activating the marma points (and the nerves and the bloodflow around these points) and invigorating the recipient's basic bodily functions.

The first part of education is exercises done in groups.  It starts with a series of animal poses and kicks.  The two together help build balance, body awareness, strength/stamina, and some understanding about how to move about.  These techniques do have a defensive purpose, but they are also building blocks that the more advanced student can leverage later.  The first big accomplishments on this are working through a series of mei payattus - choreographed combinations - that simulate one side of a fight, but in a way that is a sampler of movements, a useful flow, and a stamina builder.  There's a series of these, numbered, and fairly universal.  If you are familiar with other martial arts and thinking "sounds like a kata" - you are not wrong.

The system builds from there through hand to hand combat - grabs, some punches, hand blocks, and also hand fighting combinations.

As students get more comfortable working with each other in a combat situation, they'll move into stick fighting - both short and long stick.  Then edged weapons.  The weapons have somewhat of an escalating level of complexity, so the student progresses, leveraging techniques as they go from one weapon to another.  The most lethal looking and one of the last weapons is the urumi - a flexible sword of sharpened steal. The length can vary as can the number of steel tongues.  Just watching someone working solo with one of these can take your breath away.  Google for impressive videos of combat with these.

More stuff on weapons:
https://kadathanadankalari.in/kalaripayattu-weapons/
http://www.kalari.in/kalaripayattu/levels-weapons/
https://www.keralatourism.org/kalaripayattu/picture-gallery/sharp-weapons/23

Notice some schools have a very clear and formalized system but there's not exactly 1 specific order here.

When you think about progress on this - think years.  The traditional way would be to start as a kid of 7-9, and work daily on it.  Then by your teenage years you may be getting into weapons, and a capable practitioner 10-15 years later.  If you are an adult doing this part time in the US, without the benefit of hours a day to train, and without the formative body adjusting properties of a kid... think more like 20+ years.

There's no set belt system.  Or if there is - it's a modern marketing concept developed to help with expectations of modern students.  Generally you can tell expertise through how a practitioner performs the form and how much they know about weapons.

Massage 

Mileage will definitely vary - but 1-5 years into study, a student is likely to be invited to participate in the massage aspect.  At least for us, this is an annual event, and it's a rather special time.  The massage is performed with the recipient lying on the floor and the masseuse (generally the guru or an appointed delegate) performing the massage with the feet.  That can sound a bit terrifying, but the majority of the strokes are done with one foot on the person, and the other foot on the floor, with the benefit of a rope at shoulder/head height of the provider for a bit of balance.  The provider is expected to control the weight, pressure and angle of the strokes - and the additional leverage provided by working with the feet means that the giver has more options for how much weight to apply to any given stroke.  So it is a very vigorous process, but controlled.

For the body of students, this is generally done as a group - there's a fair amount of logistics involved and it's a special time.  Folks are generally encouraged to take time off to relax, and recipients eat a cleansing diet for a week or more before the sessions start through to a week or more after.  The shortest program can be 3 sessions over 3 days, but programs are more normally 1 week or more.  For really serious practitioners or very hurt people, a month is not unheard of.  

For others - people receiving relaxation or healing massage - the appointments may be more ad hoc.

There's a serious degree of overlap here with other Ayurvedic healing practices, including:
  • Tinctures may be recommended to help students balance the needs of the body.
  • Diet and daily living is as important as the massage itself.  So is mindfulness.
  • The oil is specially blended to fit the needs of the students and the massage, although it will likely be 1 oil for the collected needs of the students receiving the massage
  • The flow of energy through the body and how it works is quite similar to Ayurveda
There's a ton more out there on this. Googling Kalari Massage will get you plenty of YouTube videos and other explanations and probably way more terms than I've used here.

There's an element of closeness and trust in this experience that is difficult to explain.  Part of it is taking a lot of time and effort to do something special.  Part of is is that when I say "vigorous", I also mean "probably painful" - any hurt, any weakness can be a source of inflammation and irritation that is then provoked by the massage.  The goal here is to beak down weakness and literally rub them out.  And the use of hot poultices with oil can add to both the healing and the pain.  That takes a lot of trust on both sides.  The student has to trust that the provider is giving pain for the benefit of healing - and the provider has to trust that student has the right mindset and is able to respond to the instructions and take the guidance.  Providing this massage can be exhausting and also increase any pains and weaknesses the provider may have - so it takes a lot of affection to administer it.

Usage & Other Aspects of Training

These days a whole lot of what you'll see is demonstrations of choreographed fights.  For the most part, that's what's shown in theaters, festivals and other public venues.  So - if you're thinking it looks rehearsed - it very well may be.  There's a substantial tradition of this, and it's certainly how the art survives and is promoted today.

Students do learn improvisation and sparring, but a huge part of the starting point is movements and heavy drilling.  Because many of these movements can hurt the practitioner if if not done correctly, there's plenty to get right before you add the chaotic element of sparring.  The beginning of combat training takes the form of choreographed combos performed with a partner.  But schools will build towards ad hoc movements.  With that said - there are other forms out there that will get to the improvisational sparring side of training significantly sooner.

There is a reason and rational to every part of the movement, but the teacher may not be explanatory about what that is.  A common feature of Indian movement education is to focus on doing the form correctly and the teacher giving the student enough verbal correction for them to build the correct movement into their body - without necessarily explaining *why* the correct movement is correct.  That can be challenging for a non-Indian student, as elements of modern American schooling (for example) can do the mental model first, and the drilling later (if ever).  There is a viable rationale here - reasoning out how exactly an attack or defense will work will take more time than having an instinctive reaction.  There's also a variability on teaching style.  My teacher is very much willing to explain the "why" but he may be a bit of a renegade.

As with other arts in India - this is a commitment - both a semi-religious one, and a type of fealty.  There's a bond of trust here, and an important aspect of the education is the bond between teacher and student.  You'll certainly be spending enough time together that you'll be family!  But also there's an assumption that you will care for each other like family - this isn't a transactional relationship.  The teacher is crafting something here using the student as the material - working out how best to get the student's body performing the art to the best of its abilities - as such the act of teaching is custom and a demonstration of giving and caring.  The whole teacher/student relationship in Indian movement arts deserves its own article, but I had to give a nod to it here.

Clothing

Originally, in it's day - this was an unarmored art from a really hot and humid place.  As such, more than a very light amount of clothing was a disadvantage.  The common garment would be a wrapped or sewn lower body garment that looks like a dhoti or long shorts, and a tightly wrapped long rectangle that works as both a belt and some protection and core support.  

The postures and movements all aim toward keeping an unarmored combatant safe - with a focus on protecting the middle/lower abdomen and head.

Feet for training are always bare.  It's hard for me to see how shoes would be a reliable part of the combat situation, as full access to feet for balance, grip and pivot is essential.  In modern times, there are some martial art types shoes that may be worn when dealing with surfaces that are dangerous to bare feet.

Favorite Videos

Every time I look there are more and more, so here's a few of my favorites, with notes:


- Urumi Demo - My teacher - Anil Natyaveda - he is both a dancer and a martial artist, and in this case, he's combining both.  He's also working out choreography for a show (Snake and Ladders).  The second half of this is also a reasonable sample of class with him.  He's teaching a few somewhat experienced students.
- Two guys are astounded at how hard this is - the tone of this is not my favorite, but it highlights a bunch of the more advanced stuff from a perspective of someone who fights in a different style, and it does the best it can to talk about the history and the breadth of the form.  It's a little "bro" for my taste, and I wish the Indian teachers could say more... but there may be a serious language barrier here.M
- Sample mei payattu - this guy is a pretty good example of what a trained kalari person looks like - notice how lean and coiled he is.  He's super flexible and almost springy - but not without strength.  Some of his moves in this one are a bit flourish-y which makes it feel even less like combat, and there's variations on his style that are new to me - but I liked that he's doing it slow enough to appreciate, but I don't think this is slowed down in editing
- Sample short urumi fight - I may be partial because this has a lady in it.  But also - it's got 2 of the jumps I really like in this type of fight, it shows the beginning of the fight, and it's held in one of the most traditional looking Kalari spaces I've seen and gives you a sense of what that might be like.
- Curved stick fight - one of the weapons that I think is under-loved.  Small stick work takes a heck of a lot of moxy.  It's terrifying.
- initial stick work - OK, this school always has rock music and I just love that.  But also I don't see the basic drills on long stick very often.  They also do 2 stick (new to me!)
- Long stick class - yeah, that's probably the most authentic, unedited, version of what training looks like (stay tuned, the same kids have a music video of kalari too!).  This is the finished product, along with the words used in drilling.

As you can see if you let videos play through, there's a few big schools of Kalari making videos these days - CVN is probably the biggest, but I don't think I grabbed any of their videos.  So you can get into a school's stream and then see a whole bunch of stuff from the same group. 

I skipped a bunch of fairly pretty productions, as Kalari gets used a bunch these days in dance choreographies as well as fight choreography in scenic places - it's just really hard to get a sense of a form when people are trying to put their own creative imprint on it.

I also skipped a bunch of "somebody explains kalari to you while being astounded and doing it for a limited amount of time" - the one case I included at least had enough good points to make me happy.  There's a few others out there - take it for what it's worth - I don't think you can be a valid representation of the form in a short time.  My perspective on Kalari changes with every year I do it.  I fear reading this in another 5 years! 


About Me

Since I've put enough questions about validating historic information and enough judgements and subjective information out there, it seems only fair I give my credentials.  I started Kalari in March 2007, studying with Anil Natyaveda through Navarasa Theater Company and Dance Academy and I've studied it continuously since, always with him or with others from that organization.  At this point I'm the longest US student in the organization, although there are several others who are starting to get "old", give or take 5 years and many others with more expertise in India.

I've learned to do the basic movements, short & long stick, a small bit of edged weapons (knives), hand to hand, and to assist with massage.  At this point, I've probably done ~10-13 sessions of Katcha Thrimmu or the process for sick people (raksha thrimmu), receiving it myself and/or administering to others while assisting my teacher.  I've also assisted in teaching, and done some number of public demos.  The majority of my study is in the Boston area, but as my teacher travels, I've also worked with him in LA, Albuquerque, and India, having made two trips that included visiting him and his family there.

I research on my own, as well, although I'm not an accredited historian, and sadly, I don't speak more Malayalam than the basic commands of Kalari (which are their own variant of the language in an older style), so I'm a bit hampered there.  Because I also study historic Southern Indian art - I have some cross over into what I've seen images of from the static arts.

Along with Kalari, I started studying Bharata Natyam in 1999, having done dance all my life and with 10 years of experience in concert violin.  I performed my Arangetram in 2016, and studied Carnatic vocal music for several years prior to that.  I also teach and perform belly dance and Burlesque on a regular basis.  I'm a year into Capoeira and will jump into a class on just about any movement.

I started my passion for India in the 90s as a kid, but started researching the culture seriously in 1999 after my first trip to India in '98 and while joining the SCA and eventually becoming a Laurel among other things.  The SCA being the SCA, it encourages a generalized understanding of history - so you can go here to see my lifetime bibliography.


BOOKS:


https://www.amazon.com/Kalaripayat-Martial-Arts-Tradition-India/dp/1594773157/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1XKDOTKN30QYC&dchild=1&keywords=kalaripayattu&qid=1621658523&sprefix=kalari%2Caps%2C309&sr=8-3


Accessible as it is a Westerner writing it.  But also odd, as he has not fully developed his body into a Kalari style, so the pictures are rather off although the writing can be helpful.



https://www.amazon.com/When-Body-Becomes-Eyes-Kalarippayattu/dp/0195655389/ref=sr_1_12?crid=1XKDOTKN30QYC&dchild=1&keywords=kalaripayattu&qid=1621658523&sprefix=kalari%2Caps%2C309&sr=8-12


Really a super book, but it does not have practice/specific details. It’s a great description of the art and the culture that surrounds it.  The guy who researched and wrote this spend a LOT of time on it.


https://www.amazon.com/Shastra-Vidya-Ancient-Martial-Kshatriyas/dp/154120168X/ref=sr_1_16?crid=1XKDOTKN30QYC&dchild=1&keywords=kalaripayattu&qid=1621658523&sprefix=kalari%2Caps%2C309&sr=8-16


This book says not one word about Kalaripayattu - but it’s a very user-friendly work on the weapons and writing of a medieval Indian source text on combat.  It’s hard to trace whether this text has anything to do with Kalaripayattu, but it would be a great source for anyone trying to do an Indian flavor of SCA combat.


https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-e&q=NAH900Medieval+Indian+Literature+-+An+Anthology+%28Set+of+4+Volumes%29

Previously mentioned books that refer to Kalari.  This is a big purchase for a small reference.  The set is really lovely, with a lot of good references across a variety of times and places, but this is a good book to borrow, unless you are really trying to build a library for a wide body of research.


Trivandrum

Jan. 2nd, 2020 08:33 pm
bethlakshmi: (Default)
 ... yeah, now it's been a while, but while I wait for the Great Burlesque Expo web site update to finish its automated regression testing so I can approve my own pull request and then push through my latest changes to the production site... I want to return to journaling my amazing experiences so I don't leave them to my ever more faulty memory!

(if you didn't understand 1/2 of that... let me try this in normal human - I am the web development team for the Expo.  Because I'm a one-woman shop, I have a whole bunch of sneaky tricks to make sure that I am making changes that do great good and very little harm.  Hopefully tonight I'll finish another useful little thing and get it up and live for our users!)

Life's a Beach

Trivandrum Trivandrum is the capital city of the state of Kerala.  That's the state that is the southernmost part of the West Coast of India.  Tamil Nadu has the bragging rights of being the absolutely Southernmost tip of India with the city of Kanniyakumari - but Kerala crowds down pretty far on the West Coast, and it squeezes between the coast and mountain range, while running up the coast, and ending at Karnataka (where I had been while hanging out in Mysore and Bangalore).

It's a different language (Malayalam), and it's people have their own identity (Malayaly) - and in fact their own distinct look, as waves of African migration show on most people's features.  There's a LOT of seafood here, and also coconut is in just about everything.  The rice is puffier - really one could even say it's fluffier.

It's also an absolutely fertile place.  It's great for growing spices and also medicines, and as such, it's also a home to Ayurveda.  The weather is generally warmer than everything is more humid than in Karnataka or other points farther North and it definitely has a year round growing climate.  There's a very wet monsoon season, but even then, my impression is that it's pretty warm.

Given all that - it's also a perfect tourist destination.  Beaches + Spas are a huge part of the Kerala income, and Trivandrum (Thiruvananthapuram) is just one of those destinations.  In fact, there are THREE international airports - both to help bring in more tourists, but also because a lot of folks that have families here work outside of India - Dubai a common place, but then so is the US!  In fact, folks joke that you'll find Malayalies just about everywhere.

That's good and bad - it's super accessible to folks like me - it was really easy for me to hang out by myself, and negotiate just about everything in tourist spots... but then so, so many of the businesses at these spots are gauging their prices up to foreigners and it's all eyes on me and my American pocket book.  I don't mean so much from a robbery perspective - but more from a constant hum of "buy this!" in some spots.

I only had two nights and 1 full day here, but we packed a LOT in!

TrivandrumMonday - morning

At crazy early (4AM?  Maybe... it's a blur) - Amma and I got up and got ready to leave.  I was nervous because the driver from our Bangalore to Mysore trip (the one who was like 2 hours late) was again driving us in Amma's car (the one that didn't start so well b/c of battery problems) to get me, and while we had *some* slack, the plane was going to leave at a certain time, and we didn't have two HOURS of slack!

But we managed.  We were up and out only about 20 minutes late, which in India is like being ahead of time.

We did end up fueling up... and yep, with a Micro, the gas tank is under the hood.  And yes, this car is toting 3 bags (two giant, one carry-on), me, Amma and the driver!  Sleeping was impossible, although I zoned out here and there.  We managed to get to the airport on the early side!  Our only traffic was ~20-30 minutes at the tolls, which happened just as the morning commute ensued.  Since the tolls were only maybe 20 minutes from the airport, this wasn't even all that stressful.

I said a quick goodbye to Amma - not wanting to drag it out and burst into tears (more) - and grabbed my crazy luggage and went off.  On the way into Bangalore, I got rather screwed by a porter, who convinced me to over tip him seriously.  Not being interested in repeating the experience, I carried my own luggage.  By this point, I'd become a pro at Indian airports, my passport and itinerary were ready and in I went.  Paying the extra bag fees (ugh, it basically doubled my ticket!) worked and checkin was easy.  They in fact weight your bags as a whole, and it all worked.  I got through security unscathed, and actually had some spare time.  I went and got a head massage at the O2 spa - a common spa chain in India, very swanky, and then some coffee at one of the shops.  Finally I was just hanging out at the terminal (blogging!) because the plane was at least 20 if not 40 minutes late.

The flight was fine - with IndiGo you can pre-order food, and I recommend it.  Stuff runs out, and may not be available.  I got the yogurt with muesli and was very happily surprised to see that it was alphonso mango!  The US has really lame mangos, India has a ton of different mangos for all different places, growing season and purposes - the alphonso is one of the most reknown for it's juicy deliciousness (if you love this stuff, I recommend Gastropod's podcast - they have a whole show dedicated to the mango).  I also had a very nice seat neighbor - once again my enthusiastic wearing of Indian clothing made me a friend.  This time a sewn suit set - 4AM was just too early for sari draping.  I'm not a saint.

The Trivandrum airport is snazzier than I remember, but still pretty small - basically 2 gates at the domestic side, so luggage was easy to find.  Anil came and got me himself, and we were off and running!

Monday afternoon

TrivandrumAnil's family currently lives on top of a mountain in a lovely home decorated with really sharp yellow and gray accents.  It's a small house for the 5 of us (2 daughters, Anil, his wife and me...) and they were so kind to give me my own bedroom (and bathroom)!!  I think it all works better for the three folks that normally are there (Anil's wife, Anjitha and their two girls) - as Anil travels quite a bit during the year.  

The house is on a mountain because it's really close to the very good school the two girls go to.  The roads up and down the mountain are *terrifying* (no picture, I was too busy trying to convince myself that I wasn't going to die while riding in the auto!) - and also a big chokepoint that makes getting to school each day really hard if you *don't* live on the mountain.  

Anjitha fed me a lovely meal of seafood, veggies, rice and more.  Anil had some family errands to do, but he called an auto driver, and I visited Kovalam - the closest of the resort type spots.  It was an easy 20 min or so drive.

Trivandrum Kovalam is a seaside resort town that actually reminded me a lot of Ptown - not so much for the gay sexuality, but because it was so easy to wander about and enjoy everything - beach, food, shopping, spas, hotels - it was all on the beach front!!  

I very happily shopped my way down the beach - it just so happened that nearly every shop had a particular item that was on my shopping list for presents for the troupe, so I had a great time picking out patterns and colors and doing my newbie American bargaining.  I ended at the far end, and found myself a spa that had a good price for pedicures as well as threading.  And they happened to have OPI - a brand I swear by in the US.  I settled in for a relaxing hour or so - the pedicure was WONDERFUL - a lovely beachy ambiance and a good massage.  And much more time efficient than the spa treatment in Mysore  The threading ... ow.   But overall - relaxing and even though it was resort prices, it was super reasonable by US standards.

Suitably blissed out, I also got a quick snack - coffee and a fried banana with ice cream dessert.  I enjoyed it while watching the sunset (top picture through to this picture).  I was struck by the Western-ness of the folks trickling into my restaurant - they all seemed to be Westerners (white ones) of 10+ years older than I.  I felt positively young, but also given that I'm generally hanging out in normal-people places in India, it always strikes me that there are places that are so Western dominated.  

I wrapped up with eating a mango on the beach, although mid-mango I got worried that the mango had been washed in unfiltered water and eventually discarded half of it. :(

The driver picked me up again at 7:30 and home we went.  I had another great meal with Anjitha and her family, and went to bed pretty early.

Tuesday 

Trivandrum Trivandrum On Tuesday Anjitha and I went off adventuring.  A strike in town meant for a delayed start, which meant we went to Velly - a picnic spot - instead of the museum that was our original destination.  I could see the potential for beauty, although a lot of the site was under construction.  So mostly I had a good time watching the number of young couples that were clearly meeting here in absence of family.  I dare say the two of us put a crimp in some people's plans. :)

Anjitha and I caught up a little under a banyan tree - we haven't talked in 10 years.

After about 40 minutes, we moved on, and drove to Poovar - another resort area, which is a bit farther away.  It was actually a long enough drive that I was even rather drowsy and may have slept in the auto!  

Poovar features the "backwaters" - which is a twining river that feeds into a tidal estuary.  We hired a boat and took a guided tour.  While I'm not normally a bird watcher, I couldn't help but be impressed by the Kingfisher - which is also a prominent brand.

Most beautiful to me, though was the sand bar with the ocean on one side and the river on the other:





Trivandrum

Trivandrum Pictures just don't do it justice.  The tour also features floating restaurants - which are buildings on floating docks that do (behind the building) link to shore.  We picked a seafood restaraunt and got a total FEAST!  At first I thought it was just the pot of rice with seafood stew - which was quite good... but no!  We got a whole platter of seafood, papadum, and chipatti.  We were so stuffed!!

We quickly finished the tour and rushed onto the spa.  The tour also featured floating hotels (available to rent) and a grieving Madonna statue.  I admit, in the end of the tour I was really worried, because I knew we had a massage appointment at 3:30!

We finished around 4:00 and the spa turned out to be basically next door.

Ayurvedic Spa

Trivandrum I was super excited for this spa trip!  I know, it seems like I go alot - probably true - but then I'm on vacation. 

Being the center of Ayurvedic everything, Trivandrum has the option of being both the best and the worst.  There are practitioners here that are absolutely the real deal - but then due to all the tourist demand, there are plenty of places that just slap "Ayurveda" on whatever they do.

My guru, Anil, is actually trained in Ayurveda - as Kalaripayattu draws from this body of knowledge for its healing elements - Kalari teachers administer both healing massage and other treatments that use the same basis.  So I figured he'd know some good spots.  

He did me one better and worked out a good deal at a great place with a friend of his, who runs the Dream Palace International Hotel chains!

The massage was a full body massage, plus Shirodara treatment plus steaming.  I'm a massage addict and aficionado - so if you aren't or don't care, just feel free to skip right along!....

I try to get a massage in almost every place I visit - some of it is that it's a good chance to make myself chill out, and it gives me a clear booking that lets me be sure I've got one thing that is definite.  Massage appointments are pretty predictable, so it's good to know there's a ritual I already understand in my trip.  At home, I'll try all sorts of things - I get cheap massages in malls and Chinatown (some of which could easily compete in quality with fancy spas in execution, not decor!  And when traveling or just having an occasion - I book appointments at snazzier (pricier) places.   And then - yearly - I make it a practice to fast for a month and get a Kaccha Thrimmu massage from my teacher - which is so much different from the spa world, it deserves it's own blog post (and probably got one, way back when 10 or 13 years ago!).

The Ayurvedic massage was much closer to Kaccha Thrimmu than anything you've ever had from the Far East or Sweden or anything hailing from those schools (ie, almost anything I've ever had in the US... or any of my other vacations).   Major points:
  • The oil.  There is just nothing like the Ayurvedic oils.  It could be that my "type" is always the same (Ayurveda divides people into 1 of 3 basic types, and they usually don't change that much over time), but there is a very consistent smell to the oil that I really love.  It's medicinal, but not in an old aching people sort of way, more like in a verdant magic forest sort of way.  The texture is also just plain really nice - thick, and long lasting, but not gooey.
  • The strokes - If I had trouble with the oil, the massage strokes is even harder to describe!  I guess the best description is that the practitioner is just going for a different target.  Thinking of the more relaxing end of Kaccha Thrimmu - it's about covering the muscle, working out tight/sore/poorly aligned bits, but (in this case) gently yet firmly.  No marma points (pressure points) - that's reserved for other forms of Ayurvedic massage.  And with relaxation, the strokes are stronger toward your center and more light going out from the center (think inbound T/outbound T if you live in Boston...) - as this is deemed more relaxing - slowing down the energy.   I'd say that worked, as somewhere in there, I fell asleep.
  • The table - as you can see from the picture - it's got a groove around the edges, not unlike a carving board, and for basically the same reason.  (not killing and eating things!!... yeah, my brain went there too...) - the liquid run-off.  There is more oil in Ayurvedic massage practices - particularly as you'll see with the Shirodara!

The relaxation definitely worked.  I was in bliss!  The lady doing my massage was really good, finding just the right pressure and not focusing too long on any one thing.

I've been trying to find a real place to do Shirodara for YEARS.  In the US, it's about as easy as finding a restaurant that will cook authentic South Indian food (ie, maybe it's there, but not in every city, and not if you know nothing about what you are looking for).  I know generally what it is - they drip a continuous stream of oil onto your forehead to open the chakra located there (the third eye).  To keep you from getting blinded they do cover your eyes with some gauze.

At the very right most edge of the picture, you can see the apparatus that does this - it's basically a signpost, with a swinging horizontal arm.  A pot of more lovely oil is suspended there.  Inside the pot is a hole, with a string hanging straight down.  The oil drips out the hole, down the string, and right onto your third eye.

Yes - it's not your average massage thing.  But it's really quite great.  The oil quickly moves from being "yo!! there is oil on my HEAD!!!?  WHAT IS WITH THAT??" to just a ... sensation.  And that sort of transforms itself into a rather trippy experience.  As with any case where I'm just lying there, doing nothing, my mind wanders... but in this case, it moved from "ah, what next?" and a grounded attempt to just be in touch with myself to something that seemed like a very mild version of the descriptions from others of an LSD trip - kaleidoscope colors, swirling sensations.  No talking creatures or out of body experiences... thanks... but I definitely hit some sort of zone that I would call "tuning out" - maybe I was asleep... but it was more blissful than regular sleep, at least to me.

Dazed, and thoroughly relaxed, we commenced with steaming me.  This was the most curious of all.  In the US, you'd go into a steam room - it would be pre-steamy, because it's there, steaming, all the time, with any number of people in it.  In this case, it was my own little steam... cabinet!  I had seen, but mentally discarded it, having no idea what what was!  After steaming it up, the masseuse helped me in.  Inside was a small stool - not something you could collapse into, but certainly effective for getting steam all overIt definitely had an almost bondage-like quality, as I really had no clue how I'd get out of there without assistance!  But once I accepted that, it was quite nice.  A big bonus - the fact that one's head sticks out the top may make for a truly terrible selfie, but it meant that excess head could sort of be vented by my head, making the whole steam experience be even nicer.  And the warm steam coming up from the neck hole was still very nice to breathe.

The experienced ended weirdly - a lady I had not yet met was let into the room, and she came and stared at me a bit.  She asked me how it was - I replied that I liked it, and then she stared some more and talked to the masseuse.  I couldn't quite tell what the heck was going on!  After maybe 5 minutes more, she said "enough steam?!", I replied "yes", rather meaning "it's quite steamy enough" but she took it as "she's had enough" and they extracted me.  At that point, I felt weird saying "umm... no, let me back in!" - but now wish I'd insisted, as Ajitha stayed in a good 10-15 minute longer, and I would have happily done the same.

My massage lady seated me on a stool and wiped me down, removing the now steamed off oil.  And then set to work wiping as much oil out of my hair has possible.  That said my hair was still plenty oily.  Fortunately, I had a hair elastic and was able to do it back up in a bun (not my first experience with the Indian love of covering every inch of you in oil!), and then get dressed.

Once Ajitha was done, we got back into our auto and headed home.

Trivandrum On the Road

On the way back, I amused myself trying to see and take pictures of Christmas decorations.  By now it was less than 2 weeks before Christmas, and Kerala has quite a lot of Christians.  Also , as my teacher pointed out - Malayali love to celebrate and have big parties, so anybody's religion is a good a reason to have a party!  There were plenty of Christmas lights out there, although there was a notably different aesthetic.  The most striking is the hangng of 5 pointed stars... upside down with a long point.  In the US, this would be considered Satanic but it was pretty clearly the normal way of hanging these.  Note, the blurry images in my picture - these lights are stars, hung in the front of a shop that sells them.  Unless this is a Satanic Star store (and there are many) - this is just how you hang your Christmas stars here.  Note, also, the colors - they still use strands of lights and all, but the color combos are definitely a bit different.  I also managed to get some pics of a church on the drive.  I've been to St. Thomas's Cathedral in Chennai, but never a church in Kerala.
Trivandrum
On the journey home, we stopped and got fish for dinner on the side of the road.  Literally the side of the road - folks with fresh fish and other seafood stacked up on top of sand are selling their inventory.  This would absolutely terrify Americans, but Anil pointed to this as a sign that you can get REALLY fresh fish, because it doesn't go through all the waiting and transportation of the seafood industry in the US - it's caught, brought to the side of the road and sold.

We grabbed crabs - Ajitha remembering how much I loved the crab at lunch. I admit, I was confused - these were TINY!  If you zoom in - our crabs are right below the seller's knees.  They are just a bit bigger than the palm of my hand.  And they didn't look like soft shell... 

When we got home, there yet another surprise - Anil also had a just-caught fresh fish, which he'd cut up and spiced (here's a picture, pre cooking).  Then Ajitha prepared the crabs, showing me how she does it by cutting off the tiny legs, picking out the center, and then cutting it into quarters.  

The less said about getting oil out of my hair the better - I think it was at least 3 shampoos.  With a bucket and pitcher.  And cold water, because only old people in Trivandrum use hot water.

Morning

The plan for the morning was to get brunch with Anil's friend (the one who helped with a good deal for the massage) and then off to the airport, so I had a light breakfast.

First thing, we got up and got a little bit of Kalari on the roof in.  This is my second Kalari roof experience, so I felt it coming!  The best part was getting a chance to spar a bit with Anil - I feel like I lag behind on hand on hand - these days my friend Revathi is up to speed, but since I've been ahead and/or alone in Boston I don't often have sparring buddies.  This year has actually been really good for that and I hope it keeps up.  

Hitting at Anil while he held pads was a totally different experience - even though Revathi and I do blocking and hitting, knowing I could hit with more force really pointed out to me how little I knew about HOW to hit.

Sufficiently warmed up, I also laid on the floor of the living room and Anil worked on the various elements making my lower back so stiff.  Then breakfast, one more (successful!) attempt at getting the oil of my hair out, and then making sure all was packed and ready 20 minutes early.  I debated putting on the sari I wanted to travel in, but held off....

And, as such is the way of India - nothing but nothing went according to plan. Anil's friend came to visit maybe 10 minutes before departure, and he needed some physical tweaking - as he is in the US, Anil is the guy who fixes everyone!  I got to help!  Then I ran to my room and got changed, only 5 minutes late (so basically early in India time).  

As we started wrestling my suitcases to the car, a very respected maker of medicines came by - he and Anil are collaborating on bringing some of his work to the US.  I got a chance to meet him (pretty cool!) but couldn't tell much of what was being said. 

We all (including the friend) managed to take some group pictures...
Trivandrum
Luggage in car, and 20 minutes late - we're off and rolling!

We stop at the bottom of the mountain because Anil needs to talk to his friend.  They talk... Anil says we're going to change cars... if this wasn't a man I've trusted for 10 years, I would now believe I was being taken hostage.

It turns out we're not going with this friend from the picture in the house - we are going with a different friend, with a bigger car, who pulls up immediately behind us.  I decide to invoke Tall Lady privileges and sit in the front.

Now... we head in the wrong direction to the airport - to pick up the hotel friend.  And the friend with a car is a police officer who used to work for immigration in the airport.  

15 or so minutes to the Dream Palace International (one of several) and we grab the last friend. 

With basically an hour before I should check in, we start the ~45 minute drive to the airport.  I know we are headed to the airport now, because I've got Google Maps telling me so in my phone.

Trivandrum My three male escorts are in good spirits - chatting and joking, but mostly in Malayalam - which I can follow the gist of, sometimes, but usually when the topic diverges from stuff I already know about, I get lost.  I did enjoy hearing and seeing how much these 3 enjoy each other's friendship - it's always cool to see long term friends and notice how universal relationships can be - good long-term friends joke and have the same body language no matter where in the world you are.  There's something reassuring about that.

But mostly I admire the view - there some new building (this area is definitely up and coming), an ice cream cooperative society (I'm not really sure what that is, but since ice cream is involved... I'm in!), and other destination businesses on the highway - more for normal people than for tourists.

We get to the airport with 10-15 minutes to spare, if I am supposed to check in an hour early (that's what my booking says, anyway).  We take the drive along the beach - and I know that at the very least, we are so close that not much traffic or impending chaos can hit on the drive between whatever our next destination may be, and the airport.  I do know that the American idea of "brunch" is not what should be happening - we don't have two hours for mimosas, a heavy breakfast, and then dawdling over coffee - we better be doing faster.

It turns out, we decide to stop at the beach for coffee - perfect!  The view is wonderful and the timing is just about perfect.  Somehow... India always works out - just have faith.  The three of them are joking around and it's a lot of fun!  We finish by taking a group shot (right) - although I see that we have a smiling disconnect - some of us are smiling in every picture, none of us are all managing to smile at once.  Of course, not a one of us is a millennial, so you're going to have to forgive us our selfie skills.  There's at lease one in here where it seems like I am smiling because the three guys I am with are going to kill somebody.  Perhaps given my great joy at hanging out in India + the Indian male style of machismo, that's pretty much accurate.  But then again, you know me - if the men are up to something... I want in...  so perhaps in this story I am delighted by our plot to kill people?  Making me some sort of of evil genius?  (exxxceeelllent.....!)
Delhi & National Museum 2 Delhi & National Museum 2
Anyhow - the last 10 minutes of my time in Trivandrum are all of us hustling into the car, and driving the 5 minutes to the airport.  Despite all these adventures, I am maybe 5 minutes late arriving (so... 55 minutes before domestic departure).  Trivandrum International Airport has improved quite a bit since my last trip - but it basically still has 2 domestic gates.  And on the day I flew - there was NOBODY at check in.  NO ONE.  I don't think I've had that happen at an airport in 20 years.  So, I got my bags checked, and checkin and through security so fast that I had time to shop for spices and play a phone game while waiting to get on the plane!! 

The flight to Delhi was noticeably longer than any of my other domestic travels (no surprise, it's practically the opposite end of the country and 6 hours instead of 3), so my light breakfast + airplane snack wore thin, and I bought a tin of nuts.  I wish I had bought nuts on EVERY flight - cause I'd be giving these out as gifts.  The cashews were fine, but the "Nut Case" was truly awesome.  I really hope that the designer of this packaging did it knowing what delight I would take in having a nutcase.





bethlakshmi: (Default)
So... I'm home, and already in the middle of too many things.... my house is covered in semi-unpacked luggage, and my truly embarrassing amount of India shopping, and now !Christmas presents!.... I'm recovering from cold and jet lag.... back at work... and trying to redact so, so many amazing pictures of Indian history.

But after banging my head against picture sorting, and web page editing for 5 days, I wanted to get something DONE.

I originally wrote this post on the day it occurred. It was meant to catch everyone up on my trip to Belur. But it was so much more than that.

Trip to Belur - Dec. 5-6, 2019

Chennakeshava TempleAfter a trip to Halebide on the 5th, we visited the Belur temple. We had visited briefly the night before, but it was already dark (6:30 PM) when we arrived, so we mostly walked around, enjoyed it, saw the 7PM Puja and had some Prasad. I was very glad we went that day, because even stepping onto the temple grounds was overwhelming for me. I admit, I was also tired, and we'd had a long journey, but something magical is there, and it spoke to my heart.

Also seeing Vishnu during the Puja touched me. This particular instance of Vishnu is called the beautiful Vishnu or Smiling Vishnu and I think maybe he is the Vishnu for this part of my life… the way Rangathna was the Vishnu for my 20's. When I first saw Ranganatha in 1998, he spoke to me it was such a strong presence that reminded me that there are many ways to see God - it's not limited to a single religion - He's so much bigger than that… now, 21 years later, I feel like the Vishnu in Belur is speaking, although he is saying something different. I don’t know quite what…. But sometimes figuring out what God is trying to say can take a while. It's always worth the work.

…. But before I go wandering off into my Hindu/Christian spiritual philosophy, let me get back to the action…

On the drive to Belur, Amma and I had concocted our Great Plan - namely, that tomorrow morning, I'd get dressed in a full costume with the intent of taking (at a bare minimum) some static pictures on one of our cell phones at this temple. While I'm always one for a crazy outfit, and some potential public humiliation - something about changing in the car at Halebide was a turn-off for me - probably just that it was a lot of work for a minimal reward. But seeing the beauty of Belur + the opportunity to get dressed in an actual hotel room (and bathroom) - got me onboard. For Amma, the value was that in the early morning, we were likely to encounter smaller crowds - which would help with picture taking efficiency as well as being less of a public spectacle (apparently normal people don't enjoy making a spectacle of themselves...).

Town of BelurDay Starts...

December 6 started in the Udipi Lodge – it’s a newer lodge (*), and very well-appointed. We paid 600 rupees, so just under $10 US. By American standards, the room was tiny, but by Indian standards it was fairly well done. It had many plugs, a good light, a good hot water system, filtered water at the desk, a great toilet (Western!) and everything was well laid out. Not a single centimeter wasted. Amma and I are pretty good at dancing around each other in tight spaces, so we did OK.

6:00 AM - Get Up, Get Dressed.

Getting into a Bharata Natyam costume is always an experience. The makeup is intense, the hair is copious, there can be 5 or more pieces to the costume, and getting my squinty little eyes to look not only large but in a sweat-proof way is an optical illusion that defies description. And it all should stay in place so it will not attempt to kill you while you dance. It takes me an hour on a good day, and 1.5-2 hours if anything goes wrong or I'm even a little bit nervous. And… call me crazy, but for photo things I am extra nervous, as I am way more confident as a dancer than as a model. So… I started with bathing at 6AM and we were finally out the door around 8, having had Chai brought to us by the lodge.

As per usual with me, I was at my most nervous in the room getting ready… as we left the lodge with stares of the lodge-keepers following us, it was like a calmness came – this calmness is a thing I like about being on stage. And let’s face it, as a 6’ American in Bharata Natyam attire, escorted by a small but strong Indian Amma, I will be on stage from the moment anyone at all sees me. Although we tried to cover me with a shawl, it was rather hopeless. Conjure the image of Big Bird trying to be inconspicuous by wearing sunglasses and a hoodie, and you'll be just about right.

8:00 AM

Girish, our driver, drove us the half-block to the temple, where we disembarked from the car and left our chapu . We climbed the stairs, and entered. It was a bit overcast and cool, for which I was thankful – costumes are made of fairly thick silk saris, and I am a sweaty person at the best of times, I figured I didn’t need the help.

Amma immediately booked a guide, and I was rather worried. In my mind, a guide would hurry us along, while taking around half an hour of our precious not-crowded-temple time… I had thought the goal was to grab some photos before the temple became too crowded…. So I was worried. I tried to grab Amma’s attention, but we were off and running....

Chennakeshava TempleAs will all things in India – at some point it’s just best to grab the moment. This was one of those times… There is more than one guide working in the site, all certified by the Archeological Dept. of India – but they are not all the same. Some seem to care more than others – both about their visitors, and conveying the beauty of the temple. I got the feeling that this guide cared about both. He spoke clearly and really made an effort to make sure we understood. Also – when he saw our desire to take photos he really helped – telling me where to stand, and understanding immediately that we wanted to capture me-in-dance-pose images with some of the very famous dancing figures situated around the temple. These figures are really marvels – both technological and artistic. 

As we proceeded, we ran into 3 photographers, at least one of whom spoke great English – they were Bharata Natyam photographers (moral of this trip = India will provide, just keep your heart open). We effectively made a trade – they were taking pictures, and would send me copies, in return for help modeling.  Both of us were happy. We managed a few pictures before someone from the site stopped us, saying we’d need a special permit do to that. It was pretty clear these guys were professionals (they had awesome cameras) – so I guess I’m not surprised. But, it’s really annoying how some sites get all this attention and restriction, while others get barely preserved…. Personally, I’d rather see them stop people from touching the beautiful sculptures (as human hand oils can hurt many old surfaces) than keep people from taking pictures. Pictures preserve and celebrate the art – even for those who can’t be there.

With mixed emotions, we picked up the pace of our guided tour.  This is where the guide proved to be even MORE awesome, as he definitely helped us sneak in a few more very good shots when the site keepers weren’t looking!

As we went through the sanctum, Amma had used her smarts and her unflinching persuasiveness to do the impossible. She really amazes me – she’s a force to be reckoned with and I'm so glad she's on my side! She persisted upon the priests to let me dance for the god. They said at 9:00, after the puja. I could basically catch what was being said, but not all the nuances. That started to get my hopes up and gave me a little time to prepare.

After rushing through the end of our tour, we ran to meet our timing!


9:00 AM 

Chennakeshava Temple Outside of the main temple, Amma and I strategized a bit - in a way this is rather like a flash mob of one.  While this is an actual stage (it's a dancing pedestal that was *built* to hold dancers since its 12th century creation), this isn't a full on production - it's just the two of us.  After our quick game plan, we run in, bring flowers for blessing of the god, and check in with the priests. I stretch a bit (thank god for Aparna telling me long ago that if you don’t have a lot of time, 3 Sun Salutations can compensate for a whole lot of more rigorous stretching) – and then we are off.

A big tradition of Indian dance is to have your bells blessed by your guru prior to attaching them; Amma blessed my bells and I ran to a corner and strapped them on quickly, but firmly.  This is where it really helps if you practiced a 2 hour show every Sunday for a few years... you get REALLY good at getting your bells on perfectly!  In fact, the act of doing so feels like a meditation in and of itself.

Amma cleared the stage and made an announcement introducing our school, our lineage and me.

I took a few moments to pray (conveniently, there was Vishnu right there and I could ask “please don’t let me mess this up!!!”) and gather myself and we were off.


The Song...
Chennakeshava Temple
The song that was absolutely essential to me was an Antepurageete called Yenimahanadeve. Ever since Aparna first taught it to me, I’ve felt it was special. The subject is a tribute to a dancer in one of the famous sculptures at Belur who is playing a drum (see the picture!). The poet asks – “why are you so happy, so ecstatic playing this drum?” – is it your lover? What is in your heart?”… The Answer:  “Ah, I see, it’s the Smiling God, Vishnu”.

The combination of getting to be a truly ecstatic dancer, as well as the person watching her and marveling at her beauty always touches me for those are the two feelings that bring me back to dance again and again. I honestly feel that dance is prayer - for how else could it bring this feeling of joy and light?  On my very happiest days and my very worst days - I dance, and I dance for myself - and the feeling is always there.

Also, the dance movements in this piece are a great example of Mysore shyli (i.e. my particular lineage of dance) – there’s a graceful bend and flow that you just don’t see in the other schools of Bharata Natyam. I love that I have had the opportunity to sink myself into this very special form - particularly since when I started I really had no clue and so I feel like I got very lucky - or else someone up there was really looking out for me that I found a style that suits me so well.  If I knew 20 years ago all that I know now about Bharata Natyam - this is absolutely the form I would have chosen...  even though finding teachers in this style is exceedingly rare.  All you need is 1 great one. (I have two...)

When I was practicing for my Rangapravesha (i.e. Arangetram), I got to a point past groping for memory and struggling for endurance – where I was trying to perfect and put spirit into every single moment, every gesture. At that point in dance, you also have to keep breathing new life and new thought into each piece – it’s like feeding a fire. If you always have the same thought (especially technical thoughts!), you’ll end up losing the soul of the item. One of the best/worst things about dance is that a good dance is never the same twice. It can always be wonderful – but never the same – because it is people who do it and people are always changing.

One way I keep dance fresh is to think about the people I love and put the essence of them into the pieces - just like I am never the same from day to day - what I see and appreciate in those around me is never the same. In particular, I often thought of my fellow dancers and their spirit as they dance – the sheer unabashed good heart and big ass grin of Brigitte Bisoux as she tap dances was in the tilliana. The grace and sweetness of Devorah Darling was in some of the smoother more lyrical pieces. But for me – Yenimahanadeve – was always for me. Just me. My chance to connect to dance and to God.  It's about how I feel when I dance - particularly when I dance with people I care about.

So there I am...

Standing on a pedestal that is around 800 years old. 
Built at a time when famous queens are also famous dancers.
When a vital part of worshipping God was to build a space right in front for dance to be done for him.  The floor is smooth with ages and ages of bare feet having perpetually caressed this floor.


In front of me is the god that I've always connected to the best, and around me are people who count this country as home and this history as their roots.  

And it's me.  While one part of me must certainly be Indian as I have this inexplicable connection to this time, this place, these people, the most obvious part of me is most definitely a 6' tall Caucasian American hi-tech manager from the snowy city of Boston.  With my modern life, my modern loves, and a lifestyle that bears very little resemblance to anything that ever occurred at this temple - it seems like a miracle that I'm here at all.  And yet - I may be happier to be here than many a native born Indian Bharata Natyam dancer - if only because it is so much less probable that I'd ever get this chance.

It was not the best version of this dance I’ve ever performed… but it was also far from the worst.  But then I think I will never be 100% happy with my dance performances… and maybe that’s just how it is.  Perhaps if I ever WAS 100% happy, I would stop trying to improve, and that would be the death of my dance.

I can certainly say – it had some wonderful moments.   There were many of those very rare moments where I could feel the music and my body connecting, and the joy just pouring out. Midway into the performer there was a horn and bells that erupted outside – obliterating any hope of hearing my tiny iPhone speaker valiantly playing on the highest volume. But Aparna and I have drilled this song so much and for so many years – I could feel the music even without hearing it. When the horn/bells stopped, I was right were I expected to be!!

The last round – Vishnu smiling at the dancer – felt the best. Although I keep remembering all the lessons in male winking that Amma has given, and I was praying I was a masculine enough winker!! But then, that’s normal. I always see Amma’s winking face at this point and it makes my heart smile.

I concluded with the dancerly exit and then a Namaste to end (I hope, I did, anyway, it was all pretty blurry by then…).

The whole time, we had an audience – and once they realized I was really for sure done – they all clapped very fully and happily.

That may be when myself as a person came to the forefront and the professional dancer in me receded. The professional dancer won’t let a personal feeling interfere with a good show. If the feeing helps the show – it can come on stage with me. If not – it will have to be transmuted into something appropriate to the character and the performance, or it will have to wait!  Not so much for Beth the person – I’m not good at hiding my feelings - for better or worse. Hopefully it was OK here – seeing the heartfelt joy in people’s faces, I realized what had just happened and how good it was and was pretty close to crying.

Amma did a good selfie video (she's a pro!), and asked if I wanted to say anything. I did and I gave it a shot, but it was like all the feelings and thoughts jammed themselves into my head. So I tried to talk and became incomprehensible as I started crying.  Pretty much the same way people do when they win Publisher's Clearinghouse, or the Super Bowl.  I ended the video quickly and passed it back to Amma, who wisely realized that for our video project it will be a hell of a lot better if I do a voice over at some later time!

That ended the most intense part of the day. As I left the temple and felt the cool air of a breezy, increasingly sunny day, it was like a bubble bursting in a spray of glitter – the “aaaahhhh” of a good backrub hitting you in just the right place, or some other perfection. If nothing else good happens this entire trip… this did. My first temple dance. In India. For a god I love.

Wrapping up at Belur (9:20 and after)

Chennakeshava Temple For the rest of our time in the temple, I was like the Giant American Bharata Natyam version of Mickey Mouse at Disney Word. And just like Disney, Amma had to become my handler. At first, in the temple, it was happy people who had just seen my dance, and clearly wanted to capture a moment. That was honest and true and extremely gratifying.

Then it became tougher. I had already given Amma the shawl I'd worn that morning, and I had ZERO desire to put another shred of clothing on my already profoundly sweaty self. But we really couldn’t go more than 5 min without a photo request. Selfies are a global human condition now - what a sadly unifying characteristic!  And just like in the US - it started to become clear that the photo ops had no connection to who I am as a dancer - I could have been a clever cardboard cutout and gotten the same level of appreciation.  So Amma started fending people off. At first I felt really bad. As a struggling dance troupe in the US, the Boston Beautease are shameless photo givers – we just want folks to tag us on Instagram or FB - it's a necessary part of small troupe promotion.  But Amma was right – we wouldn’t get anything done with all this pausing for photos, and the trip should be about study, not making other tourists happy.  It is my love of learning funding this trip... we need to satisfy THAT most of all.

We spent another hour feeding my desire to take a picture of every viable example of dress and daily life in the Hoysala temple, including absolutely POURING over a secondary temple on the premises that wasn't getting nearly the love it deserved from most tourists, in terms of the beauty of its carvings.  Did I mention that I am so thankful that Amma is a kindred spirit?  She writes books on the history of Kannada literature (her PhD expertise!) and knows what it is to want to deeply examine every aspect of an historical artifact to confirm or develop some strange thesis that only *you* care about (at least at the moment).  She supports my desire to recreate and thus better understand the clothing/hair/jewelry of medieval India - so she was a total collaborator on helping find and collect as many pictures as possible and we bounced ideas and theories off of each other as we went along.  Collating all this info will take me months... it's daunting but exciting.


10:30 

We wrapped up at Belur.  Leaving the temple, I also splurged on a smiling Vishnu statue for home. It’s really beautiful, and also heavy…. Vishnu is giving me a bit of grief right now - it turns out I stupidly left him at the Mysore house - and getting just about ANYTHING from India to the US isn't easy, especially if it's heavy.  I'm hoping now that my teacher Aparna - who is in Mysore as I write - will be able to grab him and bring him at least to LA.  But the couple of kilos of a 5 metal statue is a lot to ask as domestic flights are seriously limited in what they allow for baggage.  And shipping to the US is a battle of paperwork, logistics and money that I hate to ask for.  I'm trying to be copasetic with the idea that Vishnu may just have chosen to stay in Mysore... but I sure hope not.

We hadn't even had breakfast yet... so we planned out our next set of tactics:
  • Breakfast!  
  • Check out of the lodge
  • Off to ANOTHER Temple - the temple tour continues!!

And given the value of having pictures in my costume, Amma suggested I stay in costume.  This is a double edged sword - Bharata Natyam costumes are the opposite of comfortable.  They are not too constrictive, after all they are for incredibly active dance! - but the amount of pins, ties, and tightly applied everything means that some part of you is guaranteed to be itchy and hurting in about 1/2 an hour.

But was I game?  Heck yeah.  I am in India once every ten years, I'm near such beautiful temples even less.  And I adore the gorgeousness of this costume.  And let's face it - I adore being center of attention, have no shame, and will readily suffer for fashion.  Here we go!


I think the next temple deserves it's own post - so stay tuned!












* = India travel for Americans: a “hotel” is a place you pay money to eat (ie, a restaurant). A “room” or a “lodge” is place you say. If you say hotel, people will think you are hungry. Also – if you need a cellphone cable, you go to a “mobile store”. Not “electronics” and you can forget about the idea of a Staples or a CVS carrying your cable.

Home

Dec. 22nd, 2019 12:01 pm
bethlakshmi: (Default)
I have so many more parts of the trip to capture...

But I'm home now, and I think I need to write to clean out my head.

Status:
- I'm home
- My luggage is home
- My distressingly large shipment is home
- Vishnu from Belur is in Mysore (hopefully coming home w. my teacher)
- 3 saris and some tailoring is in Delhi being shipped to me as a great pain in the ass by my friend (I feel so bad about this...) having arrived from Hyderabad 12 hours too late.

... my cold is another souvenir. On the good side - it didn't slow me down. There was hardly any time when I failed to enjoy myself because I was sick - maybe 2 hours in Hyderabad while Vidya and I shared our misery, and 3 hours in Mysore when I coughed my way through the night... I've been phlegmy and coughy but generally in amazing spirits. Delhi is cold and clammy - though - and the healing that Trivandrum was doing was definitely off set there. And then the airplane was no help. It also dried me like a dessicated mummy. And now there is the righteous New England cold - which has mercifully NOT hit full throttle...

At least with the New England cold, there is also the super-heated New England buildings. :) It's like Delhi outside and Trivandrum inside!

Thankfullness

Anyhow, I think the best way to sum up is a quick look at what I'm thankful for as I step between the worlds:

IndiaUnited States
  • Weather - damn near idyllic. Delhi can be cold, but all the weather lacked the brutality of a Boston winter
  • Willingness to help - the functional chaos of the country means that people are always willing to help. It teaches me that it's OK to ask for help, and that people can and do give each other (even strangers) the benefit of the doubt. When I think of all the people who helped me on my journeys, I'm just so thankful and amazed.  My best example of this trust is when fabric sellers sent us WITH our packages to go to an ATM to get cash when the credit card machine wouldn't take my card... because they felt that having the package would make me more likely to come back and pay.  It worked...
  • Full of Mystery - not just because I'm a foreigner.  Sure, that's some of it.  But what i see is that India is always changing, and always diverse.  Even Indians don't really know what's around the corner or what will happen next.  Magic feels a bit closer here - you can find a forgotten god in a temple, a shop keeper may dig you out a treasure from a lost corner of a shelf that even they had forgotten, a monkey may visit you for your morning coffee or a parrot perch on a forgotten tomb for a photo shoot.
  • Milk - Dairy in India is just a whole other thing.  There isn't so much cheese (at least where I was) but every form of milk is just so much better.  And yet the older folks talk about the days before the government milk program - when you got milk even more directly from the cow (ahem, buffalo, thanks Vidya) - and it was even more amazing.  This hits everything - the milk in your coffee is better than cream, the curds are a food I can't describe, even ice cream that came cheap and mass produced is better than some Hagen Das, and the sweet yogurts from West Bengal and Punjab make FroYo unnecessary.
  • Coffee - I know I just said Milk - but coffee is a whole other thing.  It's sweet, it's cinnamon, cardamom and I don't know what all, but it's magic.  They serve it in tiny expresso cups because otherwise you would die of joy.
  • Tender coconut - 30-50 RP unless someone is screwing you over - drink the water from a straw, cut it, and scrape out the tender fruit - and the only non-biodegradable thing is the straw.  It's just waiting for you on the side of every road.
  • Textiles - I'll never be sick of the beauty and variety of Indian textiles.  The variety, the beauty, and the price - these days handwork is expensive no matter how you cut it.  But the demands of the market mean that even the mass produced factory stuff is vibrant in its cost friendly form.  And the idea that you must have a LBD to be in formal society is unheard of. 
  • Spas - they are basically a 1/3 the price for most of the value.  There are some points that aren't great - they don't know quite how to deal with certain white people issues like straight dyed hair, and nail polish drying just doesn't work out so great here.  But overall you get a whole lot more luxury for a great price.
  • Alternatives to driving - a nicer point of India's complexity is the travel alternatives (but not the traffic!) - you have autos (auto-rickshaws), Metros (in big cities), scooters, micro-cars, cars, buses, trains... and you can hire a driver for your car, or drive yourself, or get an Uber, or get a driver with a car .... it's not perfect (will it ever be?) but I like the alternatives.  I may be a little jaded, as the economic advantage from being an American means that a 4 hour car drive with a driver between cities is on par with an Uber ride across Boston, and you can hire a car AND driver for a 2 day adventure for the cost of a bus to NYC from Boston.
  • Nature - for better or worse nature is living with you every day in India in a way it isn't in the US.  Some of it is our US hermetically sealed buildings.  But also our insecticides, other pest control, farming practices, etc, etc.  We not only tamed nature, we crushed it.  There are cities in India where it's sad to see the retreat of nature in any but it's meaner forms (Bangalore can't really defend it's title as the "Garden City"... and I'm still pondering which city wins for "Mosquito City" - Trivandrum wins for largest individual bites, but I think Bangalore wins for persistence) - but in most cases, nature is there WITH you - dogs, cows, cats on the street, trees & bushes anywhere/everywhere - and people using seeds, leaves, fruits, flowers, etc. from their backyards for food and healing.  Yeah - I also hang out with Ayurvedically inclined folks, who appreciate that connection to nature... but I can honestly say, there's a connection here that I think is close to India's heart in a way the US could learn from.  Looking at river goddesses, Varaha saving the Ganges, the snake on Shiva's shoulders - nature and religion have a more friendly relationship here.
  • Smells - yeah, some are stinky - but they are THERE (at least when I don't have a cold!) - and some are amazing - spices, sandalwood, rose, jasmine and kanakumbrum flowers, food - it's all smelling in high fidelity, even for a lady with one of the poorest senses of smell in the best of times.
  • Buildings - Perhaps it's anti-environmental of me, but the serious insulation and window technology of our buildings is down right cozy.
  • Non-intrusiveness - perhaps the counter of willing to help? In New England (not all of the US) - we have a fairly prohibitive set of norms around getting into each other's business. For example, in the month i was in India, I was asked at least weekly by various random strangers "Are you married?" and when I said "no", the reply was "oh, I'm so sorry" - and I just sort of KNEW, it wasn't "so sorry I asked that really intrusive question", it was "so sorry that you weren't able to do what you were supposed to.  (My friend from Delhi would note, the impact is more felt in the South than in the North... but the majority of my trip was South)
  • Predictable systems & processes - sounds like a lame thing to be thankful for, doesn't it?  But when you do just about anything here, the process and result is predictable.  Shipping one package in one city is the same as in another city.  Flying in one airport is a lot like another.  Buying from one store or getting cash is the same wherever.  In India, every flight is different, every package sent is different, every shopping experience is different - there's no pattern...  it's exhausting.  Let my surprises be under the Christmas tree, thanks.
  • Water - is a luxury you don't miss until it utterly changes.  First - given my American immune system, unfiltered water in India wants to kill me... so I end up toting a water bottle not just for health, but for survival.  But that also means no coconut chutney outside the house (made w. water) - which makes for sad dosa eating.  And changing my routine so I brush and take pills w filtered water, not tap water.  Stumbling into the bath and just wetting my tooth brush with tap water this morning was a real luxury.  Also - public water and water tanks run dry.  Water from the public pipes is often off at night in some parts of India.  And Hyderbad is facing serious shortages in the next few years given its growth.  And let me tell you - we use water for a whole lot more than drinking!!  Say good bye to showers... and laundry!
  • Look for yourself, fixed price shopping - square footage in Indian stores is at a premium and the style of Indian sales is "maybe if I push harder, they will buy something".  Fending off a merchant so I can think isn't a necessity in the US.  Hell - generally the teenage sales girl doesn't even want to ring me up.  But the price on the tag is the price, and my wits can spend time on finding the right store with the right stuff for the right price, not trying to outwit a merchant and wondering if I got screwed.
  • Cars - Indian car (and road) technology is quite a bit behind.  I'm pretty sure an automatic car would not survive India very well... and they DO have cars with backup cameras and blue tooth everything - but the cars are still small. Some of me is embarrassed - my Honda HRV looks like a gas guzzling monster right now - even though it's got all sorts of green fuel efficient add ons - it's a heck of a lot more mass to haul around.  But I am a 6' tall Amazon and I like my knee caps.  And I routinely haul a 6' tall Amazon's pile of stuff around.
  • Connectivity - I suspect that I had not made a good setup for myself, but also that unlike my Indian tech friends I have a propensity for going into less urban spaces.  I got an extended T Mobile International pass for the month, but it really wasn't up to my needs.  Apparently I could have probably gotten a hub, and/or an Indian prepaid phone, and I think that WOULD have been better - but also the # of places I went meant I was pretty demanding.  But it was a demand that would be not such a big deal if this was a Burlesque tour of small towns in Maine.  Even when my cell signal dies in the wilds of Maine, I could count on all sorts of public spaces having free or cheap WiFi for a quick hit - and I could upload photos and other bandwidth consuming things without more charges.  In Mysore - even the airport had no WiFi, and in the Hyderabad airport the WiFi booted me in 15 minutes!
  • Power - Outages in India are less than they were 10 years ago, but it's still routine enough to be a normal thing.
  • Shoes - Despite my love of Indian clothing you can have my Fluevogs when you take them off my cold, dead body.  And don't believe Scratch when he tells you I used to wear shoes w/out socks.  That was lifetimes ago.  
  • Toilets - I'm sorry if TP hurts the planet... I like it, and I like the satisfying WOOSH of US toilettes.  I also like that I never (? hardly ever?) think "will me sitting on this toilet destroy it utterly or rip it from the wall?
  • Showers - I was a kid that used to freak out about water pouring down on me from above.  But the reunion of me and my newly renovated home shower was a thing of profound joy.  My hair is even happier than that.
  

There are things I can't compare:

  • People I love.  They are in both countries and regardless of where I go, I will miss the others so much that my heart aches.  My US family will always be the ones who I take for granted but whom I could not live without and who spell the essence of home for me.  But my far away loved ones across so many cities in India who opened their hearts and homes to me will always be a reason why I am sad that seeing them requires 14-16 hours of plane flight and a head spinning level of jet lag one way or the other.
  • Language - I'm impressed and humiliated that so many people in all walks of live in India are bi- if not tri- lingual, while I struggle desperately and with such hopeless frustration with anything but English.  And yet I am unashamed at how very happy I am to sit here in a restaurant hearing the familiar cadences of not only my mother tongue, but the familiar lilt of the Boston accent.  It isn't the most lyrical form of English. but it's mine.  I love that human minds manage all sorts of languages, combined with the new and different ways of thinking opened with each one.  And to me the sounds of Kannada, Malyaram, Telegu and Hindi really DO sound quite different and each is beautiful in their own way.  But I do so like knowing what's being said, even when it's not addressed to me.  Or hearing the radio play and knowing the words...
  • Being on vacation - being on vacation for 3.5 weeks is just great.  Pretty hard to go wrong there.  I highly recommend it.  Maybe in a week or two I'll say that work and regular life is great too.  Right now, i'm having trouble imaging that.  I needed a chance to put work down for more than a few days, and I definitely got that.  I'm treasuring this last < 24 hours before jumping back in.

Writing this puts it in perspective... the time flew by.  I had my hard moments, sure, but they were short, not painful, and the hardest was always saying goodbye, which is an unavoidable part of enjoying time with those you care about.

I'm thankful for the opportunity to do this and I'm hopeful that India has rejuvenated me and given me some new energy for tackling regular life.  It certainly brought me a great deal of joy that I intend to hand onto.

bethlakshmi: (Default)
I made a new lady-in-tech friend on the plan home - a frequent traveler from Mysore for work. And got the advice to use Uber. Amma is not much a fan - they have been very unreliable for her. And I do see that it seems like Indian traffic is bad enough that your are more likely to be waiting 8 minutes than 2. So if your driver cancels abruptly on you, and you were waiting 8 minutes - that's a real inconvenience if it happens multiple times.

For me - it worked great. Got myself back to the house in Mysore no problem, and had a light dinner with Amma.

I was pretty pooped and the cold was less, but still pretty present. I had an early bed time, fortifying myself for the morning.

Saturday's agenda was light, but food filled:

- dance first thing - final review for the show with Aparna
- get a car to the courier to ship my packages
- NAP!  yay NAP!
- lunch in Mylary Agrahara for wonderful dosas, same as sari shopping day.
- go by Amma's friend's shop to see if there was anything interesting
- dinner of chaat
- home on the early side

Mysore final days


Mysore final days
Mysore final daysMysore final daysMysore final days



Day of the Show

I was under strict instructions to REST from Aparna - no problem!  The cold and all the fun had me pretty pooped.

But the other order of the day was packing.  Mysore was more or less my base camp, and it's a pretty small space so I'd generally had a packing scheme aimed at making the day to day stuff easy to get to, and everything else hard.  Now that I'd shifted everything with the courier, I needed to repack to facilate (1) - getting to my dance stuff for the night, (2) - getting to the clothes for the morning (since we left Mysore at 3 AM!) (3) - packing everything everything else into the airline-ready format.

That took probably 2 hours.

Then a quick run through of the show - for Amma and I to coordinate our back and forth.  

Then quiet time, and a nap.  

Then lunch and more resting (I think I finished website stuff and a post about Hyderabad).  

And then the 1.3 hours of dressing...  Hustling into a friend's car - we took off to the show.

Getting there, we found that children were already streaming into the space at 5:30.  Amma rerouted everyone and we got time to set up, meet the videographers I'd hired and talk it out.  I stretched, and walked the space... 

And we were off and running!
Mysore final days

The show went pretty well. 
Highlights I remember:
Mysore final days- For both Jatiswaram and Amma Nimma I sweated my new big bindis off.  I think everyone thought I might be exhausted due to all the sweat, but sadly this much sweat is normal for me.  But after each bindi loosing incident, they took a break so the kids could sing to ME.  It was adorable!! they are quite good and the second song came with hand gestures.  I loved it!!  And it did give time for the Bindi Pit Crew to reaffix a bindi. I think something is not good about these new bindis - they really didn't stick well and on try #3, Amma hit me with the bindi she had been wearing and there was no further issue.  Grump.
- I liked how I did with Yenimahanadeve - the same song I did at Belur.  The joy of Belur has not left and made it easy to summon the ecstasy of the dancer in this dance, and the wonder of the poet.
- Tilliana really cooked my goose.  It wasn't exhaustion - I fell out of sync in the second set, and the music is the same verse over and over with different rhythms, so I struggled through the second AND third set of the main melody to get myself on the tala the right way.  I still think I hit tala, but not the right places, as at the end, there was an entire phrase of music remaining.  For the second part, I was fine, as the musical break is really obvious and I stuck to it from there.

Mysore final daysEveryone was super supportive - I got many compliments after the show and Amma told me the kids were riveted. I wasn't so sure, I though I saw some bored but polite faces in there - but they were a very supportive audience, and I did think the other adults genuinely liked it.  I got time to change out of my clothes (quickly!), and then we were fed some dinner - all very good - sambar, rice, roti, a veg curry, and some curd rice.  Amma asked me curd rice would be OK with my cold (curd/yogurt makes a cold more goopy) and I insisted with shameless bravado that I was sure my cold would be great.  I think she knew, too, it would be my last curd rice in India, and let it go.

We made an early night of it - 9 PM we headed home.  And I was in bed (not easily able to sleep) by ~10:30.  I totally regretted that curd rice rebellion - I coughed terribly any time I relaxed enough to sleep.  Blech.

Morning

I got up at 2:00 and we were off and running by 3:15 in Amma's car.  I was nervous all the way to Bangalore - 3.5 hours away!  But they got me there in plenty of time.  I even checked in, got a massage, got a coffee and had time to fool around on Facebook before my flight!!

Next step -- off to Trivandrum!

bethlakshmi: (Default)
It's now my last full day in Mysore, and I'm laying low.

I have a show tonight that I'm trying not to think about (or I will over think it!) and I'm sick, so I am conserving my energy. The program is at 6:00 PM, and I start getting ready in half an hour. I've mostly focused on packing, laundry and sleeping today. It's good -- I guess I needed a day to relax and chill. Sorry it came with a cold. I've had this cold for a week now... it's definitely dissipating but not fast enough. I won't be healthy in time to have a last dish of curd rice. Which is a food I've really come to love, it's curds (like yogurt, but really not...) + rice. If you are having sambar or other things, you might mix that in too... but it's the conclusion of the meal for South Indian Brahmins. At first I thought it not so great - bland, and a weird texture, but I've come to love it. It's a thing Aparna's family eats, but Anil's (next stop) doesn't, and I doubt that Revathi's (last stop does). Which means I won't get real S. Indian Brahmin curds again until I visit my teacher in the states, or learn to make it myself (unlikely).

.... it turns out I didn't get this up until SEVERAL days later!  I went against the wise judgement and had curds at the dinner they gave at Shakti Dama as a last South Indian Curd Party.  I also had a Last Coughing Through the Night Party (sorry Amma!!) - since as soon as my body relaxed with my head on the pillow I had one of those never ending coughing fits.  There's a reason you shouldn't have curds when you are sick!  It did that typical Evil Cold thing - of calming down (eventually) when you are totally awake and propped into a sitting position, and then being completely terrible once you are pretty much horizontal and asleep.  YUCK.  Moral of the story:  Don't eat curd rice when you're sick (dumb ass). 


So... recollecting...

Hyderabad - Day 4
Last 24 hr Hyderabad
I was trying hard to manage my own expectations - having to leave just about anywhere at least an hour ahead (traffic!) to get to the plane meant that with a flight at 4:45, I had to arrive 3:45, and leave wherever 2:45. The original plan was to be home for a quick lunch at 2:00 - which meant leaving wherever at 1:00. Given that the traffic is crazy until 10:00 and any shopping was 1 hour away -- that meant that the morning shopping had to be pretty efficient. The hardest call was between Charmidar - which has all the fashion stuff - and Golconda Handicrafts - a govt. run handicraft emporium that has fixed prices and (somewhat) low pressure. 

We started with running over to the clubhouse so I could practice and Vidya could workout. I'm still going easy because of the cold, so I skipped the Tilliana and Ashtepadi... but was pretty happy with everything else. It turns out, Vidya ran back home and had coffee with a friend. :)

I grabbed a fast shower (I'll miss you showerhead!) and a last hair wash and we had a breakfast of dosas and chutneys. Vidya's friend joked that i'm more indian than they are, as I was chowing down in my house dress. I really don't understand why folks abandon a house dress - it is SO comfortable. Breezy and light and nothing confining it's just perfect for the thing to wear before you squeeze into your choli and sari.... 

Speaking of which, that's what I wore. Partly because I hoped to see the cook and surprise her, partly because i like to get some sari time in, and while riding an airline in a sari isn't the easiest thing in the world - it's easier than climbing over temples in a sari (which I have also done).

Last day Hyderabad
We did have some amount of messing around before we were finally ready to go at 10:30... so I grabbed pictures of the house. I was particularly taken with the Amazon package that came. It is particularly Indian branded, but works the same as the US - it had just one thing in it. What's really funny here is that Amazon sends couriers that will take your thing back immediately for a refund if you try it and don't like it. But if you wait and try to return later, it's a huge hassle unlikely to get you your money back. The couriers have to be vetted at Vidya's apartment, so she always gets a call with security asking her if it's OK to let them in. Given that Amazon shipping is the same strange case of 2-3 packages arriving on 1 day through 2-3 different routes - that means that there's a regular flow of couriers to and from their building!

The three of us - Vidya, her friend, and I - piled into the car and were off to Charmidar!! On the way, we saw a tender coconut seller and remembering my absolute addiction to them, Vidya stopped the car and we all got them.

This was definitely a shopping experience that needed people! First, I wanted to get a few "fashion" saris - meaning saris that are trendy right now, and not necessarily of any organic fiber. Given the flashiness of Indian sensibilities, these make great material for costumes for me and our troupe... making them good gifts for the dancer seamstress/costume makers in my life, too. :) 

We ended up at Zoom - a place we picked at random (Vidya is not a serious saree shopper). But it worked out very well! I found the saris I was looking for and am so happy with what I found!! Next we went up to bridalwearfor formal clothes. I had really really in my heart of hearts wanted to score some zardozi embroidery - but even in Hyderabad it's quite pricey. It's a serious amount of manual work, as well as design chops. I hadn't wanted to bargain with Vidya's sister, as I knew my eyes were bigger than my wallet... The bridal wear went from 4,000 RP for a REALLY good deal up into the 20,000 and up. That puts it between $60 US and $100s.. I'm pretty sure it could easily have gone to $1000s, although I'm not sure it could hit the wacky $10k of some US wedding dresses.

Last day Hyderabad
I tried on a whole bunch of items - all in the good bargain, but the mix of me not liking to wear pink/peach (and many had inset peach/pink netting) and the one I liked best having a stain on it, and so on - all the stuff in the bargain section didn't work. I was keeping in mind that I have to get this home, and these are are also NOT small and NOT light - and NOT going to fit in my suitcase on the next 2 stops -- so I'd be shipping it from Mysore, and probably spending $20-30 just for this to do so. So, $60 => $100. 

Then I saw it... we were chatting about the next plan, and I was casually walking and drooling. And they had a section on zardozi!!! I ended up having a English + sign language conversation with the guy doing most of the selling to us, and he told me that *he* designs these!!! I confessed that I also do this embroidery, but in a small scale, home sort of way - and I'm not nearly this good! That got me some respect. We dug in and on the bottom row, I found one that I just loved.  There *was* pink on it, but not in a big way, and the turquiose was great!  It had some flaws I thought I could fix, and I liked the colors on me.  Here's a picture of the zardozi designer/seller and me wearing the skirt part.  All these items are actually made into pieces that are formed to be a skirt, a blouse and a dupatta.  

True confession time - I don't intend to make this into the exact shape of a bridal/formal Indian set.  This zardozi will have a more exciting life than its siblings.  It will be a burlesque costume.  The dupatta will probably survive untampered with - it's perfect as is.  but the skirt will probably get reconstructed into something with slits, and even side laces.  And the blouse .... will certainly be something I wear on the upper part of my body, - but chances are "blouse" won't be a good word when I'm done.  It may also become part of a hip belt.  Mwah ha ha.  The up shot is - it will get worn a whole heck of a lot more than it would as formal wear for just about anyone.  My working costumes get used.

Already with a dismaying number of bundles,  I also indulged in a head ornament I'd never seen before.  It's a Muslim thing (I feel appeased about my ignorance... if after all this time there was a Hindu way of putting shiny stuff on yourself that I didn't know about, I would think I had failed at life).  Apparently (this wasn't clear in the store) - it's worn WITH a tika.  The tika is the circular jewelry that is dead center of the forehead.  The new thingy (name TBD?) - is the asymmetric swoopy thing on the side.  They only wear 1 and it looks (from the pictures on Pintrest so far) like instead of the Hindu way (where you stick your tika on the part in the center of your head) - they swoop hair OVER the tika (hiding the chain that hangs in on your hair and probably adding keep-it-in-place-ness) and then put the added asymetric jewelry on the larger side of the parted hair, gracefully caressing the edge of the hairline/forehead.  NEAT.

I will have to tap my research network, but this has a modern feel to it.  The Arabic/Persian style that so heavily influences Hyderabad does not love symmetry with the whole-hearted slavish devotion that Hindu aesthetics often do.  So maybe just maybe, this is historic enough to be medieval.  But I wouldn't put money on it.

I admit, I bought it because "assymetric shiny thing?? Sign me up!!!" - as Betty Blaize, I nearly ALWAYS have an assymetric hair style (pro tip - perfectly symmetric Victory Rolls only exist in the movies! - normal people didn't necessarily ever have their hair that way and an intentionally asymmetric look is often more complimentary anyway!) - usually I stick a flower on the side that has a little less perfection (if you don't like it, stick a flower on it!) - now I can perhaps work in a shiny hooky thing?

Last day HyderabadPearls

Hyderabad is called the City of Pearls (also the City of Bangles... the Hyderabad marketing department are very proud of themselves).  While if you google it, the Pearl procurement situation is .... complicated... they have been working with and crafting pearl jewelry for hundreds if not thousands of years.  And you see many more pearls or pearl-like-jewelry-substances here.

We decided to take a risk and walk the row of pearl sellers.  The guidebooks say to make sure you go to a government shop at they will take accountability for quality (true for crafts too!), but we didn't want to take the time to go driving and looking.  Besides, Zoom had said they could fix those small imperfections in ~20 min (uh oh... what is an Indian 20 min??) so -- perfect?

The first shop had a very nice show room, but it didn't tickle our shopping mojo.  Vidya suggested we walk the street more, and ended up firmly ensconced in the second shop.  The lady of the couple that owns the shop showed us ENDLESS boxes of pearls.  While it was nice to see the variety, the hard sell of item after item, box after box was really exhausting.  In my American way, I had already more or less scoped approximately what I wanted and had an even more unscientific idea of about what I wanted that to cost...  I was open to surprises but I really knew I wanted at most 2-3 pieces.  

Since this is a whole seller, there is really no easy way to see stuff without someone showing you.  Honestly, even if there was a show room as such - we would have ended with the same discussions and the seller pulling all sorts of stuff after every crack and crevice!

Eventually I found the 3 things that really spoke to me... and then there was convincing the seller that we really WERE done.  As we were sorting out payment on my ever a pain in the butt international card - Vidya and her friend ran across the street to pick up the repairs.  As it turned out, the payment solution was to go two doors down and buy from the owner's brothers shop which was (you guessed it!) the first shop we stopped into, but left.  :)  Yay Indian family monopoly.

That settled the pearl sellers insisted that I sit in their shop and wait for my friends.  That was OK, the street was CRAZY busy and the way across involved Vidya and her friend both holding my hands like I was a kid. 

That was fine for... about 30 seconds ... until our valiant sales lady proceeded to bring out MORE items, that were not pearls.  At that point, I was REALLY done!  I left the shop against everyone's protests, stood in the sun melting for about 2 minutes, and then tailgated another guy's street crossing mojo.  Making it back to Zoom, just as my faithful shopping companions had gotten all our packages into the car (along with Prasad, our one true driver)... we decided to grab lunch in the city, as there was zero hope of making it home in time.

Last day HyderabadPista Bakery

Lo and behold, my restaurant spider sense is NOT in utterly incorrect!  In driving to Charmidar, I had looked longingly at Pista Bakery - it had a lovely look, and there something about it that felt ... delicious.  I wasn't going to disrupt anything back then, by myself, but I had this feeling I would really enjoy eating there.

I was right, although I was REALLY glad to be eating with Vidya and her friend.  Two reasons:
1 - Nothing is labeled and I get shy about asking about everything, everything everything
2 - The Telegu form of hospitality seems to be "have twice as much food as your guest can eat, then sneak in more food after that".

The place is famous for it's desserts - it had traditional cakes that were very pretty, also things like tiramisu, cheesecake, etc.  And then baklava - the Arabic influence asserting it's desserty force.  And also the traditional sugary type Indian desserts that you may remember from an Indian grocery.

Last day Hyderabad In no particular order we got:
  • Blueberry cream cake - basically a lighter version of a cheesecake.  I'm actually not a cheesecake fan.   The canonical NY style cheesecake (really dense, very cheesy) is just wasted on me - I wish it was either cheese or cake.  And the Cheesecake Factory type cheesecake (a billion decadent flavors) - just leave me wanting a cake of that flavor.  But I'd say this is probably the one thing I would recognize as "cheesecake" and still really like - it was a lot more creamy/custardy while still having a tiny little tang.  And the tart/sweet of blueberry syrup complimented it really well.
  • A chicken cheese roll (?sandwich?) - a hot dog bun, with chunks of chicken, tomato sauce and cheese on top.  The first bit made me think "mmmm....  Italian" - with hints of oregano and other red sauce type seasoning.  And then like a little after taste surprise - Boom! - a little pop of Indian heat.  I really liked it.  It definitely had a "I am totally no-good-for-you" junk food like quality - the white bread of the roll, the cheese -- there was not a lot of health here.  But hey - I'm on vacation!
  • A chicken tikka burger - this is where the Telegu feeding stealth attack comes in - Vidya and her friend each got 1 sandwich thing each, and didn't finish them... and yet the two of them expected *me* to eat 2 sandwiches.  I thought we were sharing 4 things and figured "yeah, I could probably eat 1.3 sandwiches"....  Any how - the chicken tika burger was a winner, and I would hope it actually takes off in the US.  If it doesn't, I may just devise my own.  It suits all the burgery qualities without being red meat.  It's a roll - basically brioche like - with chunks of chicken done in a tandoor type way (maybe not actually a tandoor), with tamarind, yogurt and it would not surprise me if there was some mint chutney - so exactly what you think of when you say chicken tika burger.  It was messy - so maybe "chicken tika sloppy joe" - with all the sauces - but it served that same 'nom nom nom' quality that a sloppy joe does while being utterly Indian in flavor.
  • (the diLast day Hyderabadve bomb of diet destruction) - Falooda! - Falooda is a Hyderabad specialty.  Vidya's friend snuck off and got *me* one (again, my evil mistresses each had what tasted like a Pepsi with lemon) - but they felt that I really could not leave Hyderabad w/out a Falooda.  Falooda is like an Indian ice cream sundae - it's absolutely gorgeous - being layers of different colored stuff all in a sundae glass.  From what I remember - there was a layer of jello (red, at least in this case), then thin egg noodles in yellow stuff (hard to tell what... it was in the lower reaches), cream, more jello (red), chia seeds in milk or cream, ice cream, and some chopped nuts (pistachios).  It was virtually impossible to eat this without making an enormous mess.  It was milky/sticky/gooey and filled to the brim.  It's actually not as sweet as it seems - more creamy/cool/lightly sweet/refreshing than pure sugar.  I made it through maybe 1/3 of it.
We wrapped up lunch at Pista with a whole lot of food remaining....  

And on the way back - Vidya got one more of my dreams in - Pan!  

Last day Hyderabad Pan is a big deal in some parts/cultures of India.  But the Brahmins and Kalari people I hang with aren't so big for it.  I get the sense that although Vidya's had it, it's not a must-have part of her regime either.  It actually goes back into history a LONG way with medieval records referencing the eating and maybe even the preparation of it.

You always start with betel leaves - big green leaves - and I believe there's always some must-have ingredients... but I also I think there are some options.  I seem to remember, also, that one way of making pan involves a drug - I think tobacco, but I'm not sure....   We didn't get THAT kind.  From what I could tell - there were seeds of some sort, sugar, rose water/rose petals, and more in there.  

The whole thing gets wrapped in the leaf, making a little flavor cone that is about the size of the bottom 1/3 of those pre-made wrapped ice cream cones that you get at an ice cream truck.  Mine even had some sliver foil on top!

Vidya and I 'clinked" pan leaves and we all popped them in our mouths - it's basically a big mouthful.

The taste is really hard to describe - very astringent - minty/rosy/sweet - but in a good, cooling way.  The leaf gives some fiber texture and the seeds make it pretty chewy.  I was chewing it for a good 10 minutes, which means by the end the flavor is rather gone, but the seeds are very good for digestion.

We chewed all the way into the car and out of Charmidar.

By this time it was a no more messing around fast drive to the airport.  Since it was the middle of the day, and not rush hour, it really WAS fast!  

The insane level of shopping took some dealing with.  I packed a heck of a lot of it into my suitcase, compressing things like mad to make a hyper-dense little suitcase that I checked.  And then a heavy backpack and bag of shopping as my two carry ons!! 

Fortunately, all the repacking frenzy meant I didn't have to think too much about leaving until we were at the entrance to the airport.  In Indian airports, only the ticketed passenger is allowed in - they check your passport and the ticket right at the entrance.  This is where i lost it a little - I will miss Vidya terribly and I had such a whirlwind good time.

The next time I'm in Hyderabad will HAVE to be longer!!

The Airport 
We were so tight on time that I was in the passengers who need checkin NOW line behind people with even more luggage than I.  In my frenzy, I forgot to pull my little sewing scissors - fortunately i know better than to take my absolute most loved pair - so I sacrificed them to airport security.  Airport security in India is (for me) more intimidating.  And also playing by different rules: Last day Hyderabad

- no bangles (stick 'em in your purse) - except the stray bangle here or there hasn't caused me difficulty
- men and women use the same baggage scans, but go through separate metal detectors as everyone gets a metal detection wand pass - but ladies always get it from a lady in a private booth.  Since I've taken to wearing saris on my plane rides... it is also a time when i get a nice complement on my sari wearing from the lady guard... which makes the whole thing a lot less scary!
- go ahead and wear your shoes (whoopee!)
- not only laptops/tablets - but also mobile phones and all charging equipment must be scanned separately
- they *say* no needles... but so far so good.
- liquids - same deal
- the file on your nail clipper is somehow dangerous and must be broken off - only had that problem ONCE! :)

At this one, both my backpack and my bag of shopping scanned as dangerous - the backpack had the errant scissors... but the bag was because of the metal in my saris!!  Once we clarified that my crime was shopalholism, the saris made it through!

After all the drama - I was ensconced at the gate right on time and with enough extra to get a (terrible) coffee from the machine I don't like.  I have learned now - Nescafe is pretty good.  It's the other one I don't like.

As per usual, the plane was about half an hour late leaving.

I ended up making a new friend on the plane - another lady in tech who had good clear English - she works at Infosys and has a home in Mysore - so she was super-savy about the Mysore airport.  With her encouragement, I got an Uber at the airport and was home with very little fuss in ~30 min.

Getting home, Amma was much better.  I was *pooped*.



bethlakshmi: (Default)
…Fortunately, with 1 antibiotic in me, I felt much better. Not all better but enough better that I didn’t want to take more unprescribed meds…

Day 3 was another yoga day. Vidya and I were both in rough shape, but yoga certainly helped. I then ran about ½ my programme – just didn’t feel well enough to do the other (more energetic) half.

Last 24 hr Hyderabad
On Day 2, I figured out that Vidya’s guest bathroom shower is AWESOME. When you get a shower in India, there’s a real chance that it’s not working, and also w/out a shower door or curtain, the outcome will be very, very wet… in ways that no one planned for, as most times the real way to bathe is 1-2 buckets (hot & cold water) and a pitcher mix temperatures to pour over yourself. This is where I fail my Desi Test (Desi = person from India) – I can NOT really get my hair clean with a pitcher. I think I did it once…. It’s a myth I cling to that maybe it can happen again….

I really don’t know how every lady does it. Not many ladies have short hair, and Indian hair is usually very full and very thick. My Caucasian long hair is absolutely puny by example…

So with a shower running an American grade powerful stream of water at me, I washed my hair EVERYDAY. That’s probably not good, either… as I normally wash it twice a week, which keeps it pretty happy and not dry.

Vidya was still pretty sick, and so was her littlest son. Who was super cranky, and he’s right in his Terrible Twos, somewhat verbal, but not enough verbal. So she opted to stay home… sending me solo to the Salar Jung Museum after filling me up to the brim with dosa, idli and toast with strawberry preserves. She also had some really awesome spicy tomato chutney – so the ginger pickle + coconut chutney + tomato chutney (or was it pickle?) was a total evolving festival in my mouth.

19th Century Embroidered Sari, Gujarat
Salar Jung Museum

Although I was sad to not see Vidya much that day... I must say, maybe it's merciful that she was saved from the utter history & art nerd geek out orgy that occurred at the museum.

It was definitely one of the best museums I've been to in India. Effort is made to keep artifacts safe and not decomposing. The rooms are clean and well lit (when they can be - the manuscript room, for example, was intentionally dim). The artifacts could be labeled a bit better... as you'll see in my pictures some are labeled "knives 1527-1835 AD" - ... um... kind of a broad swath, don't you think? But some are done really, really well. And it has a pretty good map.

It also has something I rarely see - a gift shop and food court! I enjoyed both at the end of my trip, getting water and ice cream and then doing a little bit of gift shopping (a book and some bangles).

For me, as a huge Indian history nut, it was wonderful to see a museum where the focus is Indian art history and "oh yeah, here's some stuff from other places". :)

I took over 200 pictures... I'll certainly be spending some time sorting these out!!
Museum Hyderabad, last full day
Highlights:
  • There was a fabric room showing many of the techniques of Indian fabric decoration. The one 16th century Kashmi shawl was so dimly lit that I really couldn't get a great picture. But I did get some really nice samples of a 19th century embriodered Sari that uses a technique that I believe is historic, and the execution was really sublime! (see pic above)
  • The South Indian stone sculptures were a representative example, but the Hoysala temples have spoiled me - it wasn't jaw dropping and many pieces were in tough shape. I did find a Vijayanagara sculpture so I grabbed some pics.
  • The ivory and the jade collections had some beautiful flywhisk bases. If I see even one of these in a Western museum, I feel lucky.
  • There was a WHOLE ROOM on arms and armor!!! Much of it was out of period for the SCA, but there was enough 17th century for me to have a field day. I was psyched, because I could see how much of this could be SCA field safe with some modifications. Because of it's location, there is great mix of Deccani stuff and Mughal stuff here.
  • The miniatures room (right) was a real standout - they did a lot of work to organize and lay it out carefully with great annotations. Very little of it was in period for the SCA, but again, enough was on the cusp. Also, I kept having dejavu moments as I saw so many book covers from my library. And I have nothing but respect for how tiny these paintings generally are! See my hand or my pinkie finger for a sense of scale. Note - I have normal people sized hands... not giant Amazon hands.

  • Museum Hyderabad, last full day
  • The South Indian bronzes blew my mind. Really good quality. Well lit. And a bunch of late period stuff that I've never seen before. Two standouts here:
    • A female temple guardian from the 16th or 17th centry, central India. It looks to me like she's got a patka, a choli of a shape I've never seen, and a skirt. Unusual for a bronze.
    • A Tribunga Parvati (right) with a hair bun featuring the moon and sun.  Dated to 13th century, Vijayanagara.  I have never seen that hair ornament earlier than the 17th century!!  Whahoo!
  •  The manuscript room probably would have made many a calligraher's socks roll up and down, but sadly, I'm not enough into Islamic texts to be too excited unless there are pictures.

I finished up with an ice cream and water at the food court.  Yes, ice cream for lunch.  I'm on vacation.

And then a stroll through the gift shop.  As per usual, my sense of costs is way off.  Some things seem gift shop pricey, but the bangles seemed down right cheap for the quality (270 for a set of bangles, makes them basically $4).  I ended up getting the best book on Hyderabad and 3 sets of really snazzy bangles that came with their own little bangle tupperware.  I love that jewelery here comes with a bag or a plastic box quite often - at least if it's nice-ish.  I snapped some pics of earring (also in the Salar Jung filter) - as they looked so very much like earrings friends in the SCA have made for themselves!  Didn't want to buy the whole museum (for once), so didn't buy them.

Left the museum and got coffee with the driver - who is definitely a fan of coffee.  By the time coffee (and cookies... cherry cookies were awesome, coconut cookie... real disappointment) were done, Vidya was calling to see where the hell we were.  Not so much that we were late for anything as we'd been gone hours and hours.

Home Return Drama

The way home was fraught with drama.  In the usual Hyderabad traffic, Prasad pulls over.  I notice (having gone into coder-trance on the GBE site) and see that the driver's side visor is down and one side has pulled out of the roof.  Now the visor, not being anchored at it's main point, won't go back up - it just hangs awkwardly blocking most of the driver's view.  I can support trying to fix this, as I don't want to die because my driver couldn't see the road.

Prasad tries hard to get the thing snapped (smooshed?) back together, but a plastic part of it has definitely broken off in a not-put-back-able kind of way.  Prasad gets a screwdriver from the bike repair shop.  There are no screws on this thing, but he tries using it like a crowbar.  No luck.  Eventually he sort of pounds it back into place and then folds up the visor.  I point out a little buttony thing is still on the seat next to him.  He undoes the visor (it falls apart again) - he repeats the putting it back procedure, this time getting the button in there too.  Folds the visor back up. We're good.

He returns the screw driver to the bike shop.  I am surprised not a all that the bike shop would totally lend a screwdriver to a random driver... it's just how things roll in India.  It's chaos, but people survive by helping each other.

We drive maybe another 500 yards.  The visor falls down again with no provocation whatsoever.

At this point I can't help it, I burst into giggles.  Joy in other people's suffering.... what can I say?

I stifle them, as it's really not nice.  The poor guy.  He runs across the street and gets a different tool from a different shop (electronics repair) and tries again.  While he's running, I lean over the seat and get a look.  I'm pretty mechanical and I've had to fix a lot of strange stuff on the fly, so what the heck.  Nope, this thing is definitely broken in a way that is going to take new parts to fix.  At this point, my instinct would be duct tape.  But I'm pretty sure my and Prasad's shared linguistic options do not include - "dude this is a job for duct tape, the solution of champions".

He returns, tries tool, same result (we fold the visor back into place).  Return tool by dodging 4 lanes of traffic.  Again. Twice.  And we're off!

This solution gets him all the way to the real highway.  We were on a Rt. 9 sort of highway before - 2 lanes per direction, but lots of places to pull off, and stop and go type traffic.  We get onto a REAL highway - like a 128 type thing.  Hyderabad has a loop that runs totally around the city, which is one of the few traffic things that really works and keeps the city from loosing it's mind in a sea of gridlock.  We're on that.

I don't notice until the driving gets erratic, that the visor has fallen again.  Now it's really crazy.  Most Indian cars (this one included) are stick shift.  So there's a clutch, shift, steering... and now visor management.  He doesn't have a 3rd arm.  To top it off, he's now panicked that he's broken the car and he's trying to call Vidya to report the issue.  It's a big deal, because the service they use will penalize the driver and repair any damage, if the driver breaks the car.  So Prasad (who seems like a college student type person) definitely doesn't have the money to fix a car...    Me?  I am just thinking "this is when I finally die in Indian traffic" - as there is just no way that any human being can manage steering, shifting, using a mobile without voice rec, and keepig a visor up all at once.  

I debate what to do -- I am really wondering if I will destroy Prasad's manhood if I reach out and hold up the visor for him...  it seems like the safest thing to do.  Just as I decide "yes.  Not dying is worth trying to intervene in this visor situation", Prasad figures out that by pushing the visor all the way to the windshield, it will stay and still let him see.

Finally we arrive home.  Vidya thinks my story is as hilarious as I do... and confesses that the car is her father's and I get the sense that it's OK if it gets a bit beaten up.

She feeds me - fish with bones this time, along with okra, spinach rice (or something else that is green), and maybe something else.  It's very good!  

The night

The plan is that Gautam has a work thing and then will be home a little late, at which point we will go out and eat in celebration of it being my last day here.  When he gets home, we find that no one can do child care - normally Vidha's sister in law can help but she's out tonight.  


So... we pick a kid-friendly restaurant and plan to go.  But first the kids get fed, since then they are less rambunctious.  This worked brilliantly.  They were pooped and in a food coma.


And the car drama doesn't end.  Prasad was clearly upset enough by the day that he parked the car outside instead of in the usual spot in the garage.  And security - who are apparently uber vigilant BOOTED the car!  But they don't actually have boot technology - they call a service.  The service guy came and left and didn't give them the key.  In fact... he's at dinner.  So we end up waiting about 15-20 minutes to get the boot removed to drive to the restaurant at 9.  Probably not our slickest moment - but the company was good.
Last day Hyderabad
I am somewhat astounded that there is enough active enforcement of any rule for someone's car to get booted.  The rules are so lax here - it just seems un-Indian somehow.  You can sit with your kids on your lap in the front seat, not seat belts -- but you can't park your car outside for 4 hours?

We went to "the Penalty Box" - a sports themed restaurant that is an adjunct to sporting space.  I don't honestly know what sports...  It was an eclectic mix - we had 2 pizzas, fried rice (like as in Chinese fried rice), chicken drum sticks (I believe it's a Indo-Chinese variant called Birds of Paradise - chicken mixed with spices and maybe even breading and reformed onto the bone), and a chicken curry.  I think the curry was my favorite.

I should mention that Indian pizza is generally a white pizza.  Tomato sauce is not a default ingredient.  Which means my favorite type of pizza here is tomato cheese - which comes with slices of tomato on top.  I'm a red sauce kinda girl.  Also the crust is different - doughier.  It's generally a thin crust format, but not all that thin.

Vidya and I each had 1 Sangria.  It's been 2 weeks since my body has seen alcohol - which has done it a world of good.  It also meant that 1 glass of wine was just fine.

We took the two very pooped kids home (although it wasn't wildly past bed time) and Vidya and I spent another hour talking. It was very lovely to have some quiet time just talking.

bethlakshmi: (Default)
Catching up... this was actually yesterday, but I figure maybe I can go day by day. Also the ARGH computer crashed and I lost more than half of this...

It's really action packed. We seem to have a rhythm... Vidya and I do something in the morning, while the eldest is at preschool and the littlest is in the hands of his caretaker. Then back for lunch ~2:00 then I go off with the driver as an escort to do something until dinner in the evening.

About the house...

Last 24 hr HyderabadVidya has a male caretaker - mostly for their youngest (he's 2), a cook, and the cook also does laundry and the caretaker cleans up. I met the cook on Day 2, she was sick on Day 1 - the lady I scared out of spiciness was the backup cook. The regular cook is better (sorry backup cook... but regular cook is REALLY good). And she is quite taken with me and my Indian clothing. We smile at each other a lot. At the end of the day, we got pictures together that Vidya took, I think it was prompted by the fact that I was quite well templified (remember that FB pic?).

... then I'm put into the car with a driver. Vidya and Gautam have a car, but I'm not sure that Vidya drives here.... not sure I'd blame her - Indian driving is a whole other sport. At least here in Hyderabad, there's at least three options if you have a car:

  • Hire a driver on permanent retainer - the driver comes to your house at a certain time and hangs around all day in case you need a ride. They have (mostly) a fixed start/end time each day. At least some folk's drivers do other odd jobs if they aren't driving.
  • Have driver's that you call at need - like contractor-drivers vs. FTEs. You end up knowing at least a few drivers and you hire one when needed. That's what Amma did when we went from Bangalore to Mysore.
  • Use a mobile app!! Yep! - in Hyderabad, at least, there is a mobile app for just about everything. Including drivers. You book with the app, kind of like Uber, but instead of a driver and a car showing up... just the driver shows up. Like Uber, I get the sense that it's a lot easier to have an impulse need and to get a driver in an hour or so, instead of having to think way ahead.

In all these cases, you pay the driver for his time, and you buy your own petrol, and pay any fees - tolls, parking, etc. The driver waits with your car... if he's waiting through a meal, you cover or provide the meal, too.

So... today's itinerary:
Golconda Fort
7:00 AM - up and out - used the group class/activity rooms to get in an hour of practice. Got everything for the 15th program done.

~9:00 AM - Breakfast! Dosa, coconut chutney and a sweet ginger pickle!

10:00 AM (?ish?) - off and running! We went to Golconda Fort. Golconda Fort was neat in that I've never seen a Muslim built anything (besides Charmidar the other night!) and I've never seen a fort in India (in fact, all my fort experience is US based, so baby, modern forts!).

The striking impression I had was that (1) - it's very Muslim - the architecture, the shape of things - very different that what I'm used to in Hindu South india. (2) it's greatest feature is all sorts of cool tricks with Sound - many of the faceted ceilings reflect and ampify sound in all sorts of crazy ways that are good if you are a king trying to protect your fort from attack both political and military.

The guide was OK. We did learn a lot. Expensive though - we paid quite a bit more than we did for any of the guides in Karnataka.

Day 2 Hyderabad
We had a bit of extra time before needing to be back so we ran to a Durga temple. Durga is quite popular here. The temple and the goddess there are quite different from Chamundashwari in Mysore. The goddess here is most strikingly a 2D face, rather than being a full body sculpture. Also - people praying at the temple sometimes pledge to do a month of austerity to augment their faith - they eat a limited diet and follow other restrictions while wearing a red garment. When they are done, they bring the red garment and tie up to something (like this wall) at the temple.

It also featured a crack your own coconut space. Every other time I've seen coconuts used, they are given to priests. Here you give directly to Shiva yourself.

It also lacked the walls and goparums I'm used to but a nice walk bedecked with orange flowers and bells. And it had a foot washing station! A great service, IMO!

2:00ish - back for lunch! This time the cook made us pumpkin curry from a pumpkin from Vidya's family's farm!, red tomato rice, a dish made from sprouts - like beah sprouts, but not a bean you see in the US, and a fourth dish that I'm now forgetting. It was ALL delicious. The pumkin had jaggery and tended toward sweet - but balanced the spicy/savory of the other 3 dishes. So. Much. Food.

Next - around 3:00 - we were off to the next stop - the Buddha Statue of Hyderabad. The site has both a tiny amusement park and a boat ride in it. You end up buying the one to get into the other, effectively making the boat ride 90 RP - kind of a pain but I'm not arguing about spending $1.25 US.
Prasad (our driver) opted not to go on the boat ride, but waited for me at the dock. I offered, but couldn't tell if he (a) didn't want to go, (b) hated boats/water, (c) would rather stay on shore and text his friends, (d) was totally embarrassed by his goofy client. We did an awkward back and forth at the ticket booth, leaving the ticket guy thinking we were some awkward couple. But really Prasad is like 15-20 years younger than me, and I prefer ... more experienced (less breakable??) men. :)

The whole thing somehow reminded me of Henry Rollins' bit about the Thai Love House - although it's totally different and much more hilarious. No way am I cool enough to torture my driver that way.

The boat experience was so typically tourist, it doesn't merit much description. But I was SHOCKED that Indians actually obeyed the rules and wore life vests. I was sure I would be the only dork in a vest.

Day 2 HyderabadThe typical experience is to go at night, when it's lit up in multicolored lights. But I think I won - sunset was gorgeous and I think i got nicer photos with this. This is the Buddha taken in the traditional BethLakshmi family style - coming right out of my head. More pictures here.

Day 2 HyderabadThen on to the Birla - it's both a Temple and a Science museum. Call me a snobby American, but I felt the temple was the first priority, as science is science pretty much everywhere (although Indian science history is very different, it's not my biggest interest).

So we headed to the temple. This is my one picture - because they made me surrender my cell phone! They had both a shoe check and a mobile (of all kinds) check! And they meant it - there were two sets of guards and metal detectors checking us and my purse to make sure I'd followed the rules. So the beauty of this temple will have to exist only in my mind's eye.

It really was a fairy land -- really the only modern temple I've thought was beautiful. It's simpler in it's decoration, and the bas reliefs are really not something to get excited about. But the structure of the stairs, balconys and many levels, combined with the all white building that sits on the rock like frosting on a cake - is really otherworldly.

When we got to the top, the sun had just set, and the sky was a full moon on one side and magenta/purple/blue reflecting off the marble and the city. It truly did feel like the city of pearls. And the Buddha (now lit with multi-color splendor) was visible on it's lake in the distance. My 'OOooooooo.....!!!" of awe even made Prasad smile.

We visited the shrines - it's a Vishnu temple, and the god is fairly standard. Maybe it was my mellow mood after all the beauty, but I thought Vishnu emanated a sense of peace. As if after all my turbulent thoughts at Belur - he was saying "be cool... it's all good".

Of course I made use of the kumkum, and then we claimed our shoes (and mobiles!) and headed home.

We went straight home, so I can't speak to the museums...

8:00 we arrived, and the maid, who was just leaving - got Vidya to take our pictures. But not before she'd make sure to clean up my now very smeared kumkum job! But something about the kumkum really did it for her!

I had dinner (mostly same as lunch) and wrapped it up with a custard apple! So good!!

Vidya and I were in pretty bad shape, so Gautam and I went on a quest for cold meds. They actually have a small pharmacy in the garage, where all 5 towers in the complex can share it. I must say, wandering through a garage in search of drugs felt very sketchy - but it makes sense to put it there. Sadly, it was closed already, so the valiant Gautam went out to get meds. I am at a disadvantage on any pharmacy issue, as American supplies are so, so different. In India, it turns out, you can get antibiotics effectively w/out a proscription (yeah really). But you can't get the ingredients in Theraflu because some of them cause dizziness. ???

I ended up taking one of the antibiotics, which did give my immune system a little boost. But I really didn't want to continue it w/out a Dr., so that was my first and last... and I'm still sporting a decent head cold.

We decided to watch a movie - and picked the Croods - which seems adorable - but with all the family life happening with two very energetic boys - I really didn't follow any of the plot. Vidya and Gautam scooped up the kids around 10:30 and by 11 we were all in bed.
bethlakshmi: (Default)
Boy, am I pooped. What a day! Vidya, my friend that I'm visiting, is sick. So am I (sore throat that just won't quit, verging on head cold). And the youngest son has been running a fever and vomiting. And yet, being a 2 year old boy, is also crazy full of energy. They have 2 boys and the house is never quiet while the boys are home! She's not letting that slow her down, though. She feeds me like crazy, and we've been running all around. Today's itinerary!


Mysore to Hyderabad8:15 AM - Yoga - w/in the complex where they live, there's a class Tues & Thurs - so we went! It was lovely - just the thing

9:30ish to 10:30ish - took a walk, and visited Vidya's sister in law and get fed 6 dosas (OMG, so full of dosas!!) and fresh OJ squeezed right then.

10:30 - called Amma (she sounds so sick!!) and worked on speech to give on 12/15.

11:00 - off and running! Vidya and I went to Shilparamam, a crafts village - I was really excited to find a double ikat - particularly after the first shop insisted that they were selling double ikat, and they weren't - I didn't want to fight about it, but it irked me. But this seller (1st pic) was selling them. They aren't cheap - not even by Indian standards, but I feel happy with the pattern I bought as it's very SCA friendly, and really a beautiful peice. Many of the things here, though, where not what I would call fine examples of Indian workmanship or really preserving the traditional arts, which is what the place is supposed to be. There was a lot of typical high pressure Indian selling and also a lot of misrepresentation. Grr. I really liked shopping with Vidya, though, she's a lot of fun and we were both novices at this particular place.

~1:30 - run home, get lunch! The cook they usually have is sick, so they have the alternate cook. Apparently the last visit, she made the food so spicy even they could not eat it, but today my being around seems to have scared her so much there were NO chilis in the food (honestly, it was a little bland...). It was fun to have a different cook's food, and we had eggplant (it is my duty to try to eat all the eggplant ever.... So far, though, Vidya's family are better cooks - last night they made chicken kebab and chicken curry, and today dosas - and all of that has been really excellent.

2:30 - divide and conquer - I stayed home, while Vidya picked up her own and her sister in law's and friend's kids. That gave me some time to work on some computer stuff that has gotten really crazy!

Vidya's Sister in Law's Shop3:30 - tag team! Vidya stayed home, while I and her sister in law's kids and the driver when to her sister's shop. It turns out, the shop is a Zardozi workshop!!! Vidya hadn't told me, so I was lukewarm on going! But it totally made my day. I probably won't make it to ikat weavers - it's just too hard logistically with the current situation and schedule... but instead I get to see a zardozi workshop and talk to it's owner!!! For those that don't know, zardozi is the embroidery art of putting metal pieces - coils, paillettes, disks, beads and gold thread onto fabric. It's really hard, but these guys are like machines - the work was very good, and they are very fast. Religious tension is a real thing here - Muslims and Hindus don't get along, and there has been violence in the past... but Vidya's sister in law (HIndu) hires mostly Muslim workers, as they are the ones with the skill set to do the work, and also the shop is strategically situated near a big Muslm district. That's a thing that is pretty different about Hyderabad - the Hindu/Muslim balance is a lot more prominent, and there are many more Mosques here as well as distinct Arabic influences.

So I gawked and geeked for a while. I also (hopefully) bespoke some ari hooks, which are the tools used to really speed up zardozi, and they are painfully hard to find in the US. I'm beyond thrilled at this!!!

Also - her sister will make some cholis for the saris I purchased, and also a dress from some ikat by the yard I bought. The dresses here are lovely and quite different - very long, with a circular like skirt, and a high waistline. But they are fitted in such a way that it lengthens the body. I'm nervous about it, because usually a high waist is not by friend, but I couldn't resist trying it. All the women I see all look so lovely in this style.

Charmidar


5:00 - the driver took me to Charmidar - it's a very famous, iconic mosque in the city. Around it is a dizzying swirl of vendors and shop keepers - it's like a street festival every night. Really crazy - and I was glad to have the driver there as it was a bit daunting. No one did anything violent or threatening, but I'm a big white target here, and I can tell by the way the sellers and beggars zero in on me - everyone is hoping to get something from me... it's a lot to handle, even if the intent is neutral to friendly. The vibe here is much different. Bangalore or Mysore can be just as boisterous, but the Hindu/Muslim mix makes a different energy - you know the Muslims, because the women are either wearing hijabs or full face veils and very modest clothing, and the men wear caps an have quite distinctive beards (most of the time). That mixed with the typical Indian seller agressiveness (of any religious affiliation) and it's all mind blowing. Took a risk and got a pomegranite - because they were SO beautiful - red and split open, just like a scroll - and sugarcane juice (pressed from a sugarcane). I like tender coconut better, but I seem to be having coconut logistics problems.

I did a bit of Burlesque shopping - the stalls here feature a lot of glitzy, glittery, but well priced things. Most of it is not high quality materials, but great for stage use.

Hyderabad Biryani6:30 - head back, and grab biryani on the way. High on my bucket list here was to have chicken biryani in the heart of biryani - it's a Hyderabad speciality. We bought from a well-reputed shop, that apparently does "Old City" style biryani. Gautam (Vidya's husband) tells me there are 4 styles and this is one of them.

Back by 8:00 and watching the antics of the boys - who are 2 and 4 and boisterous. The little one is sick so apparently he's only at 50% boisterous. Wow.

1st and 2nd encounter with Custard appleHad the biryani, and also had some of the special fruits you can't get in the US - one kind of looks like an asaparagus and an artichoke had a big round baby and it's called a custard apple, sweetsop or (if you are Telegu) sita phalamu - but it's wonderfully sweet, with big black seeds. Eating it and spitting the seeds is almost as much of a production as pomegranates - but because it's all very juicy/slippery - the seed spitting is more like watermelon spitting because it's so easy. I really like these! I'm so glad I tried them!! The other, a sapora (seen in the pictures of a plate of fruit), I also had in Bangalore. It looks like a potato, but the fruit is a cross between a pear and a plum. It also has seeds, but far fewer.

And now - to bed! I really need to practice, but I can barely keep my eyes open and I'm still feeling a bit sick. Promising myself I will do in the morning, first thing before taking a bath. Maybe before breakfast. Dancing on a full stomach just doesn't seem fun.

(technically, I'm posting this a day later... as I was writing, the home network disappeared, and everyone had gone to bed already. I'm certainly not going to wake people up so I can blog... I will say - I DID get a morning practice in!!!)
 
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The apartment is SUPER modern by my standards. One of my coworkers referrred to a "bubble" and he's right. Inside the bubble, you're kind of sealed in - things are cleaner, and more American. The apartment has:

- security guards and RFID car checking - if your car doesn't have the RFID, then the guards ask who you are visiting and then page the apartment occupant via a mobile app. It's like a manual version of a smart doorbell.
- 5 buildings, all with elevators. Weirdly, the elevators each have their own request buttons - so you guess at which elevator is the best bet based on its floor, or give up and press a bunch of buttons.
- a gym, game tables, 2 open rooms that are used for things like yoga, zumba and other excercise programs, a pool, a kids pool, a lounge and on some days, a farmer's market on the lawn! The very definition of a gated community!
- a modern kitchen - it's got a stovetop and all - but also microwave, a nice fridge, washing machine (Indian style... tiny!), and all.
- many bathrooms - my room has it's own bathroom, so I can stumble in there half dazed in the middle of the night. :)
- AC! - I really don't need, but that's so fancy...
- a very open plan -- this is very customizable - people with flats customize quite a bit here... but the basic design is very open, so it gives an American-like sense of BIG space.
- so safe that everyone leaves their doors unlocked and open all the time... this just seems crazy to me... but it's what folks do!
- nearly immediate hot water and toilets that can handle toilet paper

... there's a strong divide on that last one - Indians are VERY pro-bidet. Americans are very pro-paper. I have to say that environmentally, I'm torn. We're actually going to suffer from a water shortage - there is more human need than there is clean water. Using water for cleaning like this may actually be just as bad as TP. But to me TP feels a bit less friendly, environmentally, as it just clumps up somewhere in the sewer.

This actually goes hand in hand with my theory on "clean" - what is clean... really? I don't mean spiritually. American allergy issues and fears of super-germs points out that you really *can* be too clean. But obviously dirty is bad and can make you sick. So there's a happy medium that I don't think even the scientists have really figured out... stuff like yogurt, curd, and kombucha rely on the probiotic benefits that come from bacteria that eats the milk/tea/whatever - and the fact that this is exactly the kind of bacteria that a healthy stomach really needs.... so if clean = no bacteria - it's definitely not "clean" - but it's actually better that way!

So there's also the idea that stuff "feels" clean - like the way the Snuggle Bear feels when he hugs a Snuggle Sheet softened blanket or whatever he hugs. Or the feeling of post-shower clean vs. post workout not-clean. What is that feeling? My theory - for Americans, clean = dry.  We like hand sanitizer that leaves you feeling dry and astringent. When we're sweaty we feel grubby. A table that was just cleaned can be wet... but it should dry to be ... finished? Even after a shower, you're not really done until both your skin and hair are dry...

Indians - OTOH - are more of the feeling that wet with water = clean. So ... bidets, not TP. And in a public toilet you'll hear a LOT of splashing around - as your fellow toilet users splash pitchers of water from the in-bathroom tap all over the space, but especially on the foot rests of the Indian toilet. This is IMO - the same thing as my fussy aunt taking out moist toilettes and cleaning every public toilet seat she ever encountered. Said fussy aunt would NEVER just use water - the dryness of the toilette cleaner was vital to her clean feeling... in India the wet feeling is the clean feeling... I think...

I'm still mystified at how everyone comes out of the toilet looking pretty dry - even with dupattas and saris and other drapey pieces of fabric flowing all over. I manage it (mostly) but inside the toilet is a Warner Bros cartoon worthy endeavor - thanks to yoga and lots of Bharata Natyam and Kalaripayattu, the squatting thing is no big deal (work your calves!  It's good for you!!) - but squatting + keeping pants, churidar (long tunic, a Southern style), and dupatta (light scarf) dry --- well that's a whole other story - I am like some kid in a cartoon that picks up one thing only to loose track of something else!!

....

Any how - we got in SO late. Vidya stuffed me crazy full of chicken kebab and chicken curry (first meat in 12 days...) and rice and chapatti (like a wheat-based tortilla, but Indian and better than that sounds... @mermaid_lady tried teaching me chapatti making... but I never managed anything as tasty as what every Indian that has fed me makes. Then sleep (at 1:00 AM -- flight was SO late!!) and then up at 7:40 AM. We did a yoga class - which did a LOT to make my body happier about being alive (still a little sick). Then Vidya stuffed me absolutely full of crispy dosas (lentil based crepes) and a coconut chutney and fresh squeezed just a second ago orange juice at her sister-in-law's flat in the same building. If I didn't know that the only animal she eats is chicken, I would think she was fattening me up for a cannibalistic slaughter. :)

Now - we're off to a crazy day... not entirely sure of the current plan - either craft shopping or museum, or both!

bethlakshmi: (Default)

This is my 4th full day here and we're leaving Bangalore headed to Mysore. Amma (my teacher's mother, Dr. Srivalli) has a home there, and an apartment in Bangalore. They are 3 hours apart by car, so this isn't such an epic journey.

I am currently participating in one of the things I don't love about India ... waiting indefinitely for something to happen. The world of the US or at least definitely New England, is one where a person should feel like a complete jerk for being more than 5 min late to anything. With a day full of generally 6-10 meetings in it, I feel like a jerk on a regular basis. Sadly, tech life is such that I have learned to just roll with it - I have enough ad hoc emergencies and few enough options to check in with my people, that i just accept having to mess up a meeting or two every day. I probably shouldn't, it's not one of my best professional qualities...
New Sari
In India, i believe I would classify as neurotically on time. Despite what folks may thing (yeah, I see you there...) - i do my damnedest to be on time... today, that included getting dressed in my spiffy new sari, choli, bangles, and loaner necklace at 8:10, because the driver was coming at 8:30 I Did. Not. Want To Be. Late. Well... it's now 9:30 and the driver will (theoretically) be here at 10. Sigh. Should have waited and hung out in comfy house dress.  (OK, small vindication, Amma just had words with the car company...  part of this is she gave guidance they didn't follow.  I can't speak enough Kannada to follow what she's saying but the tone is real clear)

Well... now that I've had my obligatory time-based American grump...  

(addendum - still writing, it's 10:10... but I have had coffee!  Amma's coffee absolutely makes this all better.  Also, I am both sleepy and unable to blink... hm...)

A think I really like is the Metro. It's all new since I've been here and it's lovely. It's clean, the trains are very new, and people are courteous. It's got a fair level of hustle and bustle, but people always make space for Amma, and often the men will make space for ladies. We really a very nice man yesterday who both prodded a young guy to give up his seat for me and then asked where I was from, because he heard Amma and I working on my Kannada.

A weird thing - they have metal detectors, and personal scanning.  As per usual in India, women are scanned by a lady guard in private (a small booth with curtains).  It's still really fast, but it's definitely a different flavor than US subways!  

Another thing - if you are a regular user, you get a card that pretty much seems like the Charlie Card... but everyone scans both on and off the subway, since your fare is the distance of stops traveled.  Regular users have either a time based pass or money on their cards (?maybe?).  But infrequent users like me, get a coin (see the link for pictures).  It's a little plastic coin shaped object, with an RFID in it.  You SCAN the coin getting on, and then drop it in the slot on your way out.  It's neat, but also has a real "get Charlie off the MTA" feeling.  Particularly because yesterday the doors closed on me as I made a mad dash for Amma (she is FAST!!) and knocked my coin out of my hand.  I had scramble after it, feeling like a total idiot.  



But overall - they are regular, traffic free, and super convenient. Unfortunately, the one place I know how to get to is 4th Cross - the crazy lovely shopping district. Expensive for me. :) Good for the merchants.
Another thing that was good - we went to a MEGASTORE of dance jewelry - Sri Bhavani. And, I suspect other fancy jewelry - like wedding jewelry. I know Bharata Natyam jewelry, but there's an entire other pantheon of modern Indian formal decoration that I'm fairly uninformed about. Jewelry Extraganza In my first trip with Amma (2009!), a major huge goal for me to was to have a full professional dance costume and jewelry set. It felt like just about the biggest thing I'd ever managed, and I was so, so proud and gratified and thankful. I remember Amma and I finding the first two pieces in Chennai and me sitting up at night just staring at them and touching them. I was so proud and scared. Scared... because I wanted to deserve them, and because this was my big huge purchase and I wanted to be sure my budget covered it all.

... After that first purchase, I learned just how much Amma loved me, because we went all OVER the place aquiring the rest of the set. We looked in Mysore, Bangalore and I don't even know where all. We had to have bought in 3-4 different shops, slowly getting everything I needed. Each time, the owner would pull out a little treasure hidden away somewhere because the traditional jewelry wasn't the thing in vogue they were displaying all over. Jewelry Extraganza

This time was really an embarassment of riches.  The store is two floors of jewelry on top of a beauty salon.  They have EVERYTHING - all the dance stuff you could want, also modern fashion items.  Also wedding/formal stuff.  And the typical level of Indian service - guys behind the counter to show you everything.  Some where pretty bored seeming, but the ones at the higher end areas where super attentive... also far less busy.  One thing I stlll work to get over - being willing to be a big pain in the butt.  In a store like this - with so much stashed everwhere - you have to be willing to really look and decide what you want, and that can take time.  I probably spent the longest buying a few gifts, because trying to figure out what will fit other people's tastes is always hardest.

A fun/weird thing at this particular shop - they give you a token for the things you selected at each counter.  So we had 6-8 different tokens by the time we finished, because I was getting stuff from so many places.  Great psychology - it was SUPER hard to remember what all I'd bought by the end of it.  Although before I paid, there was a chance to breath and go through the bill and my choices.  It definitely means you aren't wandering around the store with merchandise, which is probably also a security win.

We fleshed out my supply of dance things - getting a new belt (my current belt I really kind of hate - it's like plated armor and so weirdly bendable that it dents at the drop of a hat.  I've probably worn it 5 times because I'm so afraid of destroying it).  And a new long necklace, as my original necklace is GORGEOUS - but both needs repair and is really NOT made to be dance jewelry (which may be why it needs repair... don't look at me like that... I know I'm destructive...).  Also hair buns, as Amma has generally said that my hair bun should be much smaller than it is.  And new flowers.  And bindi.  Big, big bindi.  I like a medium sized bindi, but for dance, one is strongly encouraged to get a big-ass dot on one's head.  Makes sense - the eyeliner is also big.  

I really could have spent twice as much - but managed to restrain myself.  They didn't give us any discount - they insist that they've been in business 65 years, and if you can find a cheaper cost of the same item, they will give it free (how American does that sound?).  I noticed many shops in the area didn't seem to give any real bargaining... I wonder if it's out of style?  

They did do the cool thing of throwing in some extras - extra back ties for the necklace, extra earring backs.  Those things are TOTAL win for me - getting Indian earring backs and necklace clips in the US is a real chore.  This really helps me a ton.

Check out my embarrassing level of jewelry shopping here.  In my defense - shopping for this stuff on the Internet is a total lose - getting good quality is really hard.  And shopping with anyone but Amma or another dancer is a no-go with this.  There is so much particular to think about in dance jewelry, that the savvy opinion of someone else you can talk to is almost a necessity.  At least for me, the biggest extrovert on the planet.




As I posted the above to FB, the driver came and our leaving the apartment hijinks ensued.

But I forgot in my rushing to post here something I was thinking about --  since this shop has been here for 65 years... it was definitely here 10 years ago.  It was just that at the time, Amma was not as well connected in Bangalore, and her daughter in Bangalore (Preethi) was not a dancer.  So no one really had insider knowledge.  Aparna (who hates shopping), also hadn't done much shopping here.  Not only does she hate it, but when she's in India, she's connected to the dance community all over the place, and she has beautiful traditional jewelry and costumes and doesn't really need another item.  

So - I could see it as unnecessarily hard to have found the jewelry we did, in the way we did.  It was just lack of knowledge.

But instead I see it different.  The struggle really brought Amma and I together - seeing her try so hard for me made me realize how much she cares for me.  And having it be so hard, makes me treasure my jewelry all the more.  People always say how beautiful my set is (even dancers who know the options and see this stuff all the time) and I think it's really a very high quality set.  For all that this store was very very glamorous, the quality of items varied quite a lot and it would have been easy to get something I wasn't quite so fond of.

I'm really glad, now, for my crazy 2009 Jewelery Adventure.

I'm also quite OK with not having to run all over the place to get more. :)

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A reason to restart this journal is - I'm back in India.

This journal may have been at it's best when I worked out my thoughts here during my India trip 10 years ago.  Yeah.  10. Years.

So, I figured I'd at least make myself the means to try again.

So far nothing earth shattering.  A big difference is that I'm not as much of a newbie to India life.  Also, I know my budget now and I'm not too worried about it.  That said - the Indian Rupee to USD conversion is making my head spin.  A good baseilne on my last few trips was 40 RP to the USD - so I could move the decimal place and divid by four - 200 INR --> $5, $3000 INR -> $75 - it got easy after a while.  Right now, the trade is more like 70 INR to 1 USD... which just isn't as easy - 200 INR = just under $3, $3000 INR = ~$42 USD.  It's not as easy to divide by 7 on the fly and I haven't got a good metric in my head.

Couple that with the baseline has changed - I could buy quite a lot of different stuff for under $3000 INR, and this time the costs just seem higher.  Not for everything - travel inside the city is still quite cheap.  And even the cab from the airport worked out to $39 for 1 hour of travel.  Pretty good by Boston standards. 

Clothing has been pretty widely different - key stuff:
  • There seems to be more ready-made stuff
  • Prices really vary - I got 2 churidar sets for ~5,000+ INR ($70) that were quite lovely and well made, and then 3 sets + extra dupattas and some misc other stuff for the same price.  And then 4 really gorgeous cholis (also ready made) for that price. 
  • I know we're targeting ready made because unlike the last time, I really don't have the time to set down in one place and pick stuff up from a tailor... so better to just have it.  But also - I think the ready made options are a lot better than they were.  I really didn't have a problem getting my giant American size, and all my new clothes fit very nicely.

Will share pictures soon... tired and headed to bed.

Another thing - I can't tell but I think jet lag is kicking my butt more than before.  But also I was VERY tired when I was leaving.  I slept on the plane, but was headachy and probably didn't sleep so well.

Tomorrow a small festival (celebrated at home) and then we pack for Mysore.  Tuesday, we go to Mysore.
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OK, so it's been 5 years since my last post. If you weren't a part of my non-blog life, a quick catchup:
  • I've changed jobs at least once since I've been regularly journaling, probably twice.  I did a stint in quasi-govt. digital security much closer to IT & operations - I learned a lot (a big thing I learned - I hate that work). Now I work in high tech in Kendall Square at a typically frantic pace developing some of the software that runs the Internet.
  • My dad died. I know I didn't blog much about that - didn't want to.
  • My mom's had some health stuff, but she's still upbeat and determined to get into mischief (in a good way) and who has a husband who loves her and takes good care of her.
  • I did my Arangetram in April 2016 - (i.e. Rangapravesham in Kannada terms) - it's the formal debut of a Bharata Natyam dancer. It was a big deal and I was really proud to have done it.
  • I was on a grand jury for 3 months in 2018 - it taught me a lot and really took a toll on my psyche.
  • We moved our Burlesque studio ... twice... once to Cambridge and now to Boston. Don't ask, it's been tough.
  • My teachers are still my teachers - but they tend to move around the world.  Alot.  I generally see them 1-2 times per year - at least once I travel to them, and generally they make it to Boston once a year.  We still do class 2X a week, both Bharata Natyam and Kalaripayattu
  • I haven't been all that active in the SCA.  I make it to 1-3 events a year, and don't put the time in to be heavily involved.
  • I've been steadily remodeling my house - new bathroom, better kitchen, awesome living room, and hopefully soon a redone tiling of my shower.  
  • I did capoeira for 1.5 years.  Still trying to get back to it


And I moved to dreamwidth - enough of my friends are here, and I heard enough strange stuff about Live Journal's new owners, that I moved.

I am currently in India on what appears to be my every 10 year visit.  Each time I come, I've journaled and both I and any of my audience seem to really enjoy... so here goes.
bethlakshmi: (Picture of Me)
Hi, so I'm not dead.  In fact, I'm going to Pennsic.

After a minor panic 2 weeks ago, when I realized Pennsic was under a month away, I'm now more prepared AND excited instead of scared.  I've missed it for a few years now, and last year realized I was quite bummed not to be going, so I'm giving it a shot.  This will be the first time in way over 10 years that I haven't camped with the fabulous [livejournal.com profile] mermaidlady and [livejournal.com profile] new_man who can always be relied upon to get my back, even when I am really dumb.  So there's some slight nerves, but I am psyched to be camping with Lochleven which is packed with friends, and who has always seemed to be low drama and high capability.
Read more... )
bethlakshmi: (Picture of Me)
I have so many announcements!!!

First off - get while the getting is good - my Thursday night choreography for Burlesque class is starting to fill up - get in while you can - it starts this week!!  Class is at our Studio in Brighton at 8:00 on Thursdays for the next 6 weeks!  Here's all the details.

Next - if Burlesque isn't your style - I'm teaching at the Cambridge War Memorial with Serene on January 13 - actual ethnic dance!  It's so wonderful to return to my roots.  These will be a real treat, because we're focusing on core skills that are useful for any level - our theme is Balance and we're taking it from all angles.  So don't feel you need to be a classical Indian dance ninja or anything - I won't be torturing you all with aramundi (much as I enjoy that!!) - I'll still make you sweaty and exhausted (wink wink!) but it'll be more reusable for just about any dance form.  Here's more details:

Middle Eastern Dance & Balance Workshop
Teachers: Lakshmi and Serene
Jan 13 2013
12-1:30:  Lakshmi
Spinning Every Which Way
A
multi-disciplinary exploration of ways to spin and techniques for
spinning that draws from Lakshmi's diverse dance background.  We'll
cover a variety of spinning techiniques spanning across Western and
Eastern dance styles and talk about the balance, core and foot work
skills needed to make a spin controlled, clean, and repeatable.  Class
will include:
- static and traveling spins
- technique involving both toe and heel spins
- ways to not get dizzy
- both dance and martial arts spin concepts
- the aesthics of spins with music and costuming
1:30-3: Serene
Balancing with props (focus on baskets, trays and swords)
We'll
explore core concepts of balance dancing with props and how our balance
changes the steps we do when working with a given prop. Class will
include:
- entrances and exits
- techniques on steps which accentuate use of balanced props
- ways to transitions through steps while still dancing and featuring your prop
- the concepts of musicality and interpretation with your prop
3-4:30 Lakshmi
Balance in Choreography
Just
as your body has balance, so does your troupe and your choreography as a
whole!  Play to the strengths of yourself and your dancers by growing
your awareness of how bodies can move in balance of each other,
regardless of size or shape.  Whether you're looking to build more
interesting solo choreographies, or working (or hoping to work with!)
groups of dancers, this is a great class for thinking about ways to get
bodies to move in pleasing harmony.

This
class will explore some of the concepts behind balancing one or many
bodies in motion, using timing and space to its best advantage. 
Concepts will include:

- blocking
- phrasing
- levels
- directional movement
- working with diverse body types

All
classes will include a light stretch and practice exercises to
demonstrate the concepts being taught, along with some guided
experimental time.
Logistics:
Please
wear clothing you can dance in.  Nothing tight, constraining, or so
baggy you cannot move easily in it.  A significant portion of the class
will be done in barefeet or very minimal foot coverage (toe covers or
ballet shoes).  Other portions of class can be done in any dance shoe
that is acceptable in the space (character shoes, ballroom shoes, jazz
shoes - no heavily rubberized soles)
Where: War
Memorial in Cambridge MA; 1640 Cambridge St Cambridge, MA (entrance is
door across the street from Darwin's coffee shop)
How much:  $5.00 paid to the attendant
When: Jan 13th 12-5

That same night - not far away - is the opening night of the preview for the Bod of Avon - the Babydolls' tribute to Shakespeare - so get in TWO great dance activities in one day!  and not far apart!!  - and you'll even see me doing some actual, straight up Middle Eastern - how cool is that!!?

bethlakshmi: (Default)
Lakshmi, Emine and Dr. Utpola Borah at KWDMS - last minute of last day before we fly like the wind to get me on the plane home.
I had a super great time at KWDMS last weekend.  I shared a room with HRH Thura and Master Valizan.  That makes us all sound quite classy, but in truth we were anything but.  Three enthusiastic dancers is bound to be energetic, enthusiastic and not at all decorious.  Just the way I like it.  My classes and performances went well overall, and I had a great time.  The experts brought in by Chandara where out of this world - I particularly fell in love with Dr. Utpola Borah and her husband Dr. Hans Utter - they are both Indian Hindustani music experts, and their skill and teaching was simply awesome.  I'd go on at length to make all of you jealous, but I have other things I want to write about, so please take an action to feel jealous for having missed it and do that later.

For the moment, I was struck last night by wanting to point out how much belief can affect your abilty to move the universe in the direction of your choice.  It's come up in my head many times in the last week, so I thought I'd highlight a few stories along this line:...


Believe you can fly )
bethlakshmi: (Default)
How about that?  I'm actually doing Laurelish things!

The SCA India list started with Ivory, but with my ferret like distractability, I ended up in footwear (ivory footwear, mind you), and found this site that's just killing me with how cool it is:

http://www.allaboutshoes.ca/en/paduka/the_paduka/index_2.php

(sitting in my rocking chair, pretending to be crotchedy) - Back in my day...

Seriously.   When I started doing an Indian persona:
  • I knew NO ONE doing it (a year later I met Vairavi, and joined the SCA India list)
  • I could find almost nothing on the Internet
  • The only books out there for this were either all-Asia art anthologies, or (if you were lucky) all-India or all-Hindu art anthologies.  Era by era?  Are you kidding me?
  • There was a time when I owned all the books I could find on the Internet on my chosen era
  • There was a time when the 10 heavy duty Indian researchers in the SCA could barely cover the subcontinent, with each having their own location & time, not overlapping in anyway and with each person taking 2-3 centuries each.  And we left huge, huge gaps.
The idea of a site only about footwear, with extant images, that are ZOOMABLE, 3D rotatable and documented with time, place, and museum holder.  OMG. 

Even more awesome - there's a 200 BC shoe on this page that shows (thank you to Tevi for pointing it out) the holes that suggest this was likely a flip-flop style shoe - something I was never really sure existed.  Even more awesome - with the detail here, someone could absolutely recreate this shoe and enter it an A&S contest.  (Hint-hint.  Hint-Hint-Hint).

If you happen to be interested in wood working and want a sponsor for these materials (I'd even be willing to talk cost of tools for the carving) - in return for me owning the shoes when you are done... let me know.  I am a Laurel with more money than time right now, and these shoes just KILL me, they are so cool.

I REALLY wish I could tell you (who is you? the mythical minion that lives in my head and does what I tell it to) to go off and make me the rosewater pumping toe-peg shoes that are even cooler, but there is no date attached, and the effort hardly seems fair if we can't document it...  But man, oh man... who doesn't want rosewater pumping shoes???  For years, I figured when I was crazy old lady I would get goldfish shoes  But now I know that my real mission in life is to find and document rosewater pumping shoes, although new_man will kill me, cause he hates rosewater, so I will eventually have to replace the rosewater with something else - like fresh baked cookie dough scent or something.

KWDMS

Apr. 12th, 2012 05:47 pm
bethlakshmi: (Default)
It's official - I'm going to KWDMS!!

http://www.kwdms9.com/index.php?action=default

I'll be teaching an onslaught of classes there, schedules coming soon, but it'll include:

- Kalari Payattu - an overview on Friday and a beat down on Sunday morning (Death by Lakshmi)
- Carnatic Music 101 - and there is a Hindustani medieval research guy, who I am dying to geek out with!!
- Bharata Natyam Next Steps - Emine is doing what I am sure will be a super intro class, so I'm picking up for people who want a bit more.
- Bharata Natyam Variaions - Emine and I are co teaching a variations class on our stylistic variations - it's almost never you get to see two Bharata Natyam SCA geeks in one place, (pretty much only when Meenakshi and I are around each other bending reality) so we're tapping that and co-teaching a sort of "you say to-may-to, I say to-mah-to" sort of class to highlight the fluidity of somethign that is often perceived and taught as a rigid form.
- A.S. Documentation/Presentation for historic performing arts - it'll be most applicable the closer you are to my expertise (Indian dance and music) but my target to focus on the most widely applicable topics - how to explain to judges who will only experience you art in a few brief minutes what they will need for considering it.  Particularly when your art is coming from a non-Western context where the variations in documentation sources may be poorly understood.

I've registered and I'm pretty psyched.  They've got a killer lineup for this - including several other teachers who I've greatly enjoyed learning from over the years. 

bethlakshmi: (Default)
Had a fantastic dance weekend today. But boy am I sore!! I have been sick on and off for almost 2 months, and my workout agenda just fell apart at that time, leaving my muscles in a sorry state. So I expect some soreness. I guess I should be thankful that this is an all over soreness - as it means I worked things pretty much all over.

Stuff from the weeekend....


Read more... )
bethlakshmi: (Default)
So... 4 weeks into new job and I'm still taking it all in.

As I think I said, I now work downtown in a big swanky fnancial joint right next to South Station.  Here's a cluster of things I'm still trying to get my head around:


Read more... )

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